The Perfect Pair

Chili Two Ways

2010-04-11T09:17:00.000-07:00

Vegetarian White Bean Chili with 2008 Eos Estate Chardonnay, Private Reserve: 5/5

2008 Eos Estate Chardonnay, Private Reserve: 93/100

When I made Chili last, Shelbey told me that the next Chili I should try to make should be a vegetarian white chili. So with chili on the menu for Amuse Bouche http://bit.ly/b2wdTJ, I decided to make a duo, one traditional, the other vegetarian.

I’m pretty sure the cashier at the grocery store thought I was preparing for the apocalypse when I walked to the check out line with close to 15 items of canned goods. The vegetarian white bean chili recipe I found, http://bit.ly/d5FCqD, called for four different types of beans and a can of diced green chilies, and the traditional chili uses four different types of beans as well, along with two kinds of caned tomatoes and tomato paste. So yes, lots of cans, and lots of beans.

The great thing about canned goods is they are always cheaper than fresh, and when it comes to Chili, it’s hard to taste the difference. Since I didn’t have to purchase any spices, which can get expensive, I spent about $30 dollars on all of the ingredients for two pots of chili that would probably serve about 25-30 people. This made each serving around $1. Take that economic crisis.

Since the vegetarian chili used sour cream as a thickening agent, when it came to wine I wanted to make sure I would have something that would be able to stand up against the sour cream’s zip. Luckily I had what I needed sitting right in front of me at home, a bottle of 2008 Eos Estate Chardonnay, private reserve. If you recall, I first paired this wine with Mark Bittman’s Pork Chops in a sherry garlic sauce, which was a huge success. With a heavy body, a floral and caramelly aroma, I knew this was a perfect choice for the chili.

When it came time to cook, I donned my mad scientist glasses and lab coat, and set out browning ground beef for one chili, sauteing peppers and onions for the other, then opening all of the cans, organizing them accordingly, and throwing all the ingredients together in a frenzy of culinary conquest. The great thing about chili is it comes together in a fairly short amount of time and can cook over low heat all day if need be. If you have the time, I recommend making chili the day before, and let it refrigerate over night. This lets everything marinate together, creating a delicious harmonization of flavors. For the vegetarian chili, this also lets the beans soak up some of the excess veggie stock, giving things a thicker, “chili-er” texture.

Fortunately for me, I was able to make the chili a day in advance so all I had to do to prepare on the day of, was put the pot over high heat, add the sour cream, and let it warm. While all the flavors of the dish are more unified, the apartment wasn’t coated in cooking smells like it was the day prior.

For garnish I shredded some colby-jack cheese, chopped some cilantro, and left out the sour cream, for Shelbey who’s a sour cream fiend. Pouring a glass of wine, I snapped some pictures and then it was time to eat. Holding the wine to my nose, I was met with those delicious aroma’s of apple blossoms, and warm caramel, all married together in light oak. Giving the wine a swirl I noticed the heavier body, and the rich darker golden color of the wine. As the wine trickled over my palate I was met with a heavier body, coated with creme brulee and fresh apples—delicious.

Taking spoonful of Chili, I tried to get a perfect bite of beans, peppers, cheese, cilantro, and sour cream. As the chili hit my tongue I was immediately met with the zip of the broth, followed by the earthiness of the black eyed peas, before giving way to the sweetness of the peppers, and the fresh crisp of the cilantro. Leaving the pot to marinate over night really helped the flavors combine in a happy marriage.

Following the bite with another drink of wine, my palate was warmed with the oak of the wine, while the sweetness of the peppers were enhanced by the warm caramel notes in the Chardonnay. The heavy body balanced the sour cream, allowing the textures of the beans to be felt and enjoyed.

As we were finishing our meals, Shelbey pointed out that it was still light outside. Soon it would be time for grilling and salads, moving away from the heavier dishes of winter, moving away from the Chardonnay’s and Cabernets, and into the Chenin Blancs and Pinot Grises of summer. As we plopped on the couch to relax, and wait for Project Runway, we weren’t left over stuffed, but we were full and satisfied. Another Perfect Pair.

Channeling Chicken Fried Steak

2010-04-01T10:25:00.000-07:00

Chicken Fried Steak and 2009 Big House White: 5/5

2009 Big House White: 81/100

When Michael and I went to Texas this past fall, we met his mom at some chain restaurant in Fort Worth, where Michael got steak fingers, and Debbie, ‘Woman’ as Michael calls her, got chicken fried steak. Both gigantic portions came served with fries and white country gravy.

The funny thing about Illinois is that other than Chicago and the surrounding suburbs, most of the state is fields, miles and miles, of corn fields, bean fields, and hay fields. With corn fields come farmers, farmers, livestock, livestock, the butcher, and you end up eating meat, potatoes and corn, ever night of the week. So in Rockford, at a restaurant called the Machine Shed in particular, it’s not hard to find Chicken fried steak, but I guess here in the city serving deep fried cube steak might be a bit low brow. Heaven On Seven, a New Orleans inspired restaurant, has the dish on the menu, but it better be fried in gold for $17.95, I mean we’re talking cube steak here.

So what is chicken fried steak all about anyways? Last night I just happen to catch the episode of Good Eats where the recipe I used was being covered. http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/alton-brown/chicken-fried-steak-recipe/index.html According to the Nutritional Anthropologist Deborah Duchon, who pops in on the show, chicken fried steak stems from the German Wienerschnitzel, a breaded and fried veal cutlet. When the Germans immigrated to North America they ended up in the middle part of Texas. Unable to produce ample amounts of veal, they used the tougher parts of the cow, which were then tenderized and fried similarly. Combining that with another dish in a cream sauce, chicken fried steak was born.

When it comes to pairing a wine, fried food is kind of a conundrum. Usually fried food is associated with bars, and bars, beer. And with cube steak, breading, and gravy, your palate almost craves some carbonation to subdue those fatty, mouth coating textures. Since cube steak, itself, isn’t all that fatty to begin with, it’s not sacrilegious to stay away from red wine when it comes to this dish. For my sides I decided to make some corn succotash, with peppers and cajun seasoning, and some mashed cauliflower, a healthy alternative to mashed potatoes. Since both were pretty light, I was left with the debate of bubbles or no bubbles. When doing bubbly with an entree, brut is better. You don’t want to have a sweet sparkling wine with your super savory food. At the same time, I still consider most sparkling wines on the lighter side of the spectrum, so even though they might provide some needed effervescence, the flavor of the wine might be totally washed out by the food. The other alternative is to choose a medium bodied white wine, something like a Viognier or Pinot Grigio, that will provide a little more flavor and aromatics, but still have that ability to cleanse the palate.

Since this was a working man’s dish, I didn’t think in necessary to splurge on a $20+ bottle of wine, so strolling down the wine isle Michael pointed out the 2009 Big House White from California. Basically a medium bodied blended table wine, Big House White is a blend of Muscat Canelli, Viognier, Gruner Vetliner, and Malvasia Bianaca, all for under 10 bucks. We tried the Big House Red with Paula Deen’s Beef Stroganoff a couple months back and thought it to be a tasty table wine, so I thought, why not give the white a try?

As with any home frying, be prepared to get messy, but there’s something about the smell of flour, egg, and oil that just makes you feel comfortable. As I dredged, and soaked, and fried, Michael sat in anticipation in the living room. Usually I would be making something vegetarian, but since everyone had prior obligations, this meal was just going to be for Michael and me.

I don’t know if I used too much oil, or if there was a flaw in the recipe, but putting the already fried steaks in the oven, did not allow for the grease to drip off as planned, so I suggest if you do make this, to rest the steaks on some paper towels for a few moments before popping them in the oven to keep warm.

I have to admit, I am getting pretty good at multi-tasking in the kitchen, as the steak was frying, my cauliflower was boiling, my peppers were sauteing, and I had the corn warming in the microwave. Up until now, I never thought I would be able to make one of Rachel Ray’s dishes in 30 minutes, but I have to admit, I think I could come pretty close.

After I whipped up the gravy, and mashed the cauliflower, it was time to eat. Now Michael says white gravy is traditional when it comes to chicken fried steak, but I just think brown gravy made with chicken stock has a little more flavor. Either way, it put a smile on Michael’s face.

Taking a whiff of the wine I was met with rich floral aromatics of apple blossoms, and peach. Coating my palate with a light and acidic quality, I could pick out hints of grapefruit, and an apple after taste. Since the wine was so aromatic the smell was almost palate cleansing just by itself, so I wasn’t concerned with the pair.

With a nice peppery flavor from the gravy, followed by a slight crunch from the breading and a slightly chewy, but still tender piece of cube steak, it wasn’t long before the chicken fried steak started to disappear from my plate. Adding a nice cajun spice, the corn succotash was a intermittent relief from the cube steak, and the mashed cauliflower was a happy, light alternative to starchy mashed potatoes.

Finishing with another taste of wine, the acidity of the Big House White was strong enough to handle the fattiness of the fried steak, and the sweet corn succotash was able to enhance the fruity quality of the wine.

Although Michael said he wasn’t any less homesick, I knew he was satisfied at least. Using all of the senses, food is able to transport us in both time and space, and I hope that Michael was able to at least go home for a couple of bites. Another Perfect Pair.

Extravagant Enchiladas

2010-03-25T06:52:00.001-07:00

2008 Baron Philippe de Rothschild Escudo Rojo and Enchiladas: 5/5

2008 Baron Philippe de Rothschild Escudo Rojo: 91/100

There are those recipes, staples if you will, of your family. Enchiladas are one of my families favorites. Sure, they are a bastardized version of authentic enchiladas, but there is something in the simplicity of ground beef, refried beans, tortillas, cheese and sauce that is just perfect.

As a side note, With plenty of Mexican restaurants near downtown Chicago, why take the time to cook Mexican at home? At Zapatista’s you can pay as much as $12.99 for a plate of Enchiladas. What’s that you want extra cheese? That’ll be an additional $2.00. Throw in a $7 glass of wine or a $5 beer, some $8 dollar guacamole, and you’ve spent over $30 with tip. It’s just not worth the money when you can make everything from scratch, with as much cheese as you’d like, serve 4 people with leftovers, all for under $20.

Since the column that I’ve been co-writing needs pictures of the dishes that I am writing about, I thought I would double dip this week and feature the enchiladas twice. Amuse Bouche is a column written for the Windy City Times focused on what food means to family and the LGBT community. Starting on recipes that define our family, every couple of months we plan to shift the focus of the column to feature another theme that highlights other recipes and LGBT interests. So for the enchiladas recipe, first read the column, then the recipe at the end: http://bit.ly/bhyyCP

With rich mouth coating flavors, I knew I could expect, I wanted to find a wine that would be able to stand up to the tomato sauce, the fatty cheese, the ground beef, and the sour cream and beans. At first I thought a Malbec would fit the bill, but I’ve chosen Malbec for every Mexican inspired dish that I’ve made, so I wanted to push my en’vino’lope (wow, that’s corny).

Anyways, as I was walking through the grocery store, I made my way down the Wine isle to the South American wines. Plastered with plenty of Malbecs, I stopped and stared for something different. There on the top shelve was a bottle of 2008 Baron Philippe de Rothschild Escudo Rojo on sale for $12.99, originally $18.99.

Baron Philippe de Rothschild wine is rich in history, reaching back all the way to the late 18th century. Now sold all over the world, even the branded wine, like Escudo Rojo, is obtaining high reviews. Translated from the german “Das Rote Schild” (Red Shield), used as the Rothschild family sign, Escudo Rojo is a blend of red wines that showcases Chile’s rich soil, and the technical skill found in Rothschild wines. With an alcohol content of 14.5% I was sure that there would be no problem with the wine standing up to the bold and fatty flavors of the enchiladas.

As with most Mexican recipes that I have made, there is a lot of construction when it comes to putting the recipe together, like an assembly line. After the meat was browned and seasoned, the cheese grated, the refried beans opened, it was time to start constructing. I am always looking for a way to make recipes a bit healthier, and with enchiladas, if you substitute whole wheat tortillas for plain flour, you won’t even be able to taste the difference. Once ready to assemble, it’s just tortilla, beans, roll, repeat, until all of your ingredients are used. Usually I’m left with a little extra ground beef and refried beans, which turn into a snack for the chef. Once the baking dishes hit the oven, the smell of melting cheese, and enchilada sauce, began to seep out of into the kitchen, coating the smallest crevasses of our apartment in a rich and spicy aroma.

With the cheese melted and bubbling, it was time to take the enchiladas out of the oven. You want to let them rest a couple of minutes before serving, so the heat can distribute evenly, and then it’s chow time.

With avocado, lettuce, sour cream, hot sauce, and diced tomatoes on the table, all that was left to do was take a couple of pictures, doctor up my enchiladas, and then dig in. Looking at the darker purple color of the Escudo Rojo, I noticed some recognizable legs streak down my glass. With strong aromas of blackberry, oak, and black cherry, the contrast to the spicy mexican flavors was warm and inviting. As the wine coated my mouth, I felt a full body and fruiter flavors, before swallowing to reveal the wine’s upfront tannins.

As my fork pierced the tortilla, little bits of ground beef tumbled out onto the sauce. Getting a bite of lettuce tomato, sour cream and enchilada, my mouth watered in anticipation. As soon as the bit hit my tongue I was transported back to childhood, eating at the kitchen table with my family, to college preparing enchiladas for my dorm friends, to colorado with Chrissy. Not only was the wine soaked in history so was the food. The slight spiciness of the enchilada sauce, played against the cool sour cream, and the chewy cheese. Little pops of green pepper and onion would rise and fall, giving way to the fresh crunch of lettuce, or a vibrant pop of tomato.

Taking another swig of wine, the bold flavors of blackberry and cherry stood in a noticeable contrast to the enchiladas, but did not overpower any aspect of the dish. Instead my mouth was given a needed sweetness that left me wanting more enchiladas.

As the banter about the drama of daily life swirled like the wine in our glass, at least there was one constant, and that was our friendship. There is something magical in food. It holds the power to relieve you from the stress and chaos of daily life, transporting you to a simpler or happier time, while creating new and lasting memories. Another Perfect Pair.

Pad Thai Pandemonium

2010-03-16T09:05:00.001-07:00

2006 Fritz-Josef Schwibiger Riesling and Authentic Pad Thai: 4/5

2006 Fritz-Josef Schwibiger Riesling: 80/100

After seeing a picture of some good looking Pho on facebook, I was hit with the craving for some good pad thai. Most would call up their favorite Thai restaurant and order some carry out, but with a day to dedicate to cooking, I thought I would try making it from scratch.

As with a lot of eastern-world street vendor recipes, the cooking process doesn’t take long, but there are tons of things going on very quickly. After reading some mediocre comments about Alton Brown’s Pad Thai recipe I clicked a link that claimed to have a “real” Pad Thai Recipe: http://www.thaitable.com/Thai/recipes/Pad_Thai.htm The website looks a little sketchy, I know, there are no comments, and if you click the pronunciation link, an entertaining sound bite will pop up, but there were plenty of pictures, step by step instructions, and some history related to Pad Thai, so I was willing to step out of my comfort zone. What’s the worse that could happen.

If you have accessibility to an oriental market, you shouldn’t have a problem finding any of the ingredients to make this dish, but if you are stuck with shopping at Jewell or Dominick’s, you might have to do some modifications. I took a trip to whole foods, and was able to find everything except preserved turnip, and banana flower. Preserved turnip add a little zing, so I substituted ginger instead.

When looking to pair the light complex flavors in many oriental dishes, while dealing with a spicy element, when it comes to wine, the way to go is a white. Since this Pad Thai called for crushed red chili, I wanted to make sure I chose a wine that would stand up to the immediate heat the flakes provide. With lime, tamarind, fish sauce, and peanuts, the delicate flavors might fall flat when paired with a rich and buttery Chardonnay, but would playfully interact with something like a Riesling or a Chenin Blanc.

Perusing the wine section of Whole Foods I stumbled upon some German Rieslings. Now if everything goes according to plan I will be doing a study of Rieslings in the weeks to come, so keep an eye out, but with Pad Thai on the menu, I was thinking Riesling was the way to go. Unless you are fluent in German, Spanish, Italian, and French, you will more than likely run into some language barriers when looking over non-American wine. Not to fear. If there is no sommelier on hand to assist you, there are a few things that can give you an idea of the wine without having to bust out your iPhone and translate the bottle.

If sold in America, a bottle of wine must contain an alcohol per volume (apv) percentage. In most cases, this is also an indicator of the wine’s body, the lower the APV the lighter the wine. When looking at foreign red wines, vintage is another. The older the wine, the more mature the flavors, and vice versa. So if you are going to splurge on a 10 year old bottle of Cabernet, you can expect some well developed flavors. If you are feeling completely lost, look for bottles with awards, usually a sticker or something attached to the wine that is not the actual label, if the sticker is gold, most likely that wine won some sort of gold medal, and someone, somewhere, likes it.

Priced at $9.99 a bottle, I decided on a 2006 Fritz-Josef Schwibinger Riesling, from the Reinhessen region of Germany. With a alcohol content of 11%, I knew that the wine would probably be lighter and sweeter, and was hoping that it would have enough acidity to stand up to the tamarind and fish sauce.

When it came time to cook, I first put my mis en place, in order, a very important step with this dish. If you do not have everything set out, chopped up, portioned out, and ready to use, you will fail. Okay, you might not fail, but it makes cooking a lot easier if you have everything ready to go. Since Shelbey was already over, I decided to enlist her to be my recipe reader and assistant. The recipe said that a large pot would work if you didn’t own a wok, but I recommend a large non-stick frying pan, especially after trying a stainless steel skillet first.

Taking a deep breath I started heating my skillet with some olive oil, and toasting my peanuts. After burning the first handful of peanuts, and filling the apartment with smoke from the olive oil, I decided to switch to vegetable oil, which yielded much better results. With a hot skillet, and constant stirring, and adding, and sorting, and dividing, I was lucky to have Shelbey on hand.

With the smell of tamarind, fish sauce, and peanuts lingering in the air, the first batch of Pad Thai, hit the table as an 80% success, the other 20% burnt to the bottom of the stainless steel skillet. With Zachary and our friend Andrew still on their way over, I was sure that the second batch would come out even better.

Swirling my wine, I noticed a mature golden hue, indicative of the wines age. Met with aromas of apple, and hints of tropical flavors, the wine’s aromas matched that of the Pad Thai splendidly. Taking a mouthful, my palate was coaxed with a fairly sweet sensation that gave way to a slight acidity and a light finish. I probably could have done with more acidity, but with only a slightly spicy dish, the wine worked well.

A combination of sweet and savory the tamarind flavor of the Pad thai immediately made my mouth water, awakening the fruiter flavors left from the wine. A subtle crunch of bean sprout and peanut gave way to the softer textures of noodle, with the slightly chewy texture of shrimp. With the added freshness from the lime, every bite left me wanting more.

Paired with another mouthful of wine, the effect was refreshing and light, perfect for a spring or summer dinner. Enhancing the complexity of flavor, the Riesling was able to handle the lighter flavors of green onion and fish sauce, while the lime in the Pad Thai brought out the acidity of the wine.

As Michael and I fried some bananas for dessert to accompany the chocolate and orange liqueur tureens Andrew brought from his cooking class, everyone hit the couch to watch Project Runway. Nothing like good food, good friends, and a good night. Another perfect pair.

Impressive Pizza

2010-03-07T07:32:00.000-08:00

2007 Abadía da Cova Albariño and Greek and Margherita pizza: 5/5

2007 Abadía da Cova Albariño: 89/100

With the beautiful sunshine this past Thursday, I took to the streets and headed down to whole foods for some high quality produce. On the menu: two whole wheat pizzas, one Greek, the other a Margherita.

Walking into Whole Foods is like walking into a culinary Disney World. Fresh flowers waft towards your nose as you enter, you catch a glimpse of beautifully faced organic produce in kaleidoscope patterns. The whole place buzzes with a healthy, fresh vibe. Of course you are going to be tagged with an extra 10 bucks or so for shopping organic, but the quality is worth it when it comes to a veggie pizza.

Shelbey asked me last week if her mom, Wendy, could come over for dinner this Thursday. Wendy sells Cookie Lee Jewelry and frequents Chicago to go to conventions and events and usually stays with Shelbey in the evenings. With Rocio confirming she was going to make it as well, I wanted to make sure that I made something that would feed everyone. What better than pizza right?

If you’ve ever shorted yourself by picking up a pre-made pizza crust from the store, I’m telling you, don’t do it. Pizza crust is not hard to make, it does take a little time. My mom has a recipe for regular white pizza crust, and the last time I made pizza I tried it with wheat flour and it was a little dry, so I found a recipe with rave reviews online: http://allrecipes.com/recipe/amazing-whole-wheat-pizza-crust/detail.aspx If you have a bread machine, as I’m sure many of you don’t, but if you do, you can also mix all these ingredients in the bread machine, saving you time and strain.

For the Greek pizza I wanted a pretty rustic presentation, so I got some olives from the Olive bar at Whole foods, rough chopped and red onion, used organic crumbled feta cheese, and just peeled apart a couple jarred artichoke hearts. For a light sauce I whipped up some pesto. If you have a food processor great, if you don’t, I recommend going and picking up a little 21 oz one. My 21 oz Cuisinart processor is the perfect size, and doesn’t take up your entire cabinet or counter. To the processor add a clove of garlic, 4-6 fresh basil leaves, some baby spinach, mixed greens, salt and pepper. Your 21 oz processor should be about 3/4 of the way full. Process on low while adding olive oil until the the greens are no longer sticking to the side of the processor. That’s it (and now you will ask yourself why you ever spent 6 dollars on a 4 oz jar of the stuff). Once the pizza was assembled I topped it with a light sprinkle of dried dill, indicative of greek cuisine.

A traditional Margherita pizza is simple: sliced tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, basil and pizza sauce. For Michael I added some pepperoni on a quarter of the pizza so he would have some meat. My mom’s pizza sauce is simple: 1 6oz can of tomato paste, 1 14 oz can of tomato sauce, 1 - 1 1/2 tablespoons of minced garlic, 1 teaspoon of dried basil, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix the ingredients together and your done. The next time I make a Margherita pizza I’ll wait to put the basil on until the last 5 minutes of cooking, so it does get crispy, but either way the flavor is still the same.

Since I was in the area, I stopped into Wine Styles and chatted with Sara Kay Snider, the resident sommelier, about the evenings meal. Telling her I was thinking of a heavier bodied white wine, she agreed, and showed me to a bottle of 2007 Abadía da Cova Albariño. Albariño is a varietal of grape popular in Spain, and usually has aromatics of almond, citrus, and apple, with a slight minerality, and a present acidity.

Before the pizzas even were close to hitting the oven, the apartment smelled of blooming yeast, garlic, onion, and tomatoes. With the fresh aromatics, my taste buds were tingling just thinking about the finished product.

Both Wendy and Rocio arrived around 7:00, and the pizzas had been sliced and were waiting when they arrived. The intoxicating aromas of feta, dill, basil, and dough floated all the way into the elevator, calling the women in like ancient sirens of the sea. (okay maybe not that dramatic). Anxious to see Wendy’s reaction, I described both pizzas, and the wine, while serving a slice of each to everyone but Michael, who’s not a fan of pesto or feta. To make sure we had enough food I whipped together a salad of baby spinach, mixed greens, shredded carrot, all tossed in a poppy seed dressing.

Inspecting the wine, I noticed a light greenish gold tint, before breathing in a full aroma of almond, citrus, and apple. With a bright acidity, tingling the sides of my tounge, and a slightly slatey minerality, the Alboriño was well balanced. Lighter than a Chardonnay, I would compare the body to that of a Pinot Grigio. Finishing clean, the Albariño refreshed my palate, and would be able to keep the pizza vibrant.

Taking a bite of the Greek pizza, I was met with the upfront flavor of feta that gave way to the sweetness of the red onion. Layered with flavors, olives and pesto peeked through with acidity and fat before giving way to an underlying flavor of dill.

Moving on to a bite of the Margehrita pizza, my mouth felt a bit more full with the mozzarella cheese versus the feta, but the simple flavors of basil and tomato, were not as in depth as the flavors in the greek pizza. The general consensus in the room was the Greek pizza was better, but both were tasty in their own right.

Paired with the Albariño, the overall effect was light, not a meal you'd have to feel guilty about indulging in. Bringing out the acidity in the onion, the Greek pizza was only enhanced by a swig of wine, while the tomatoes and mozzarella took on an overall sweetness—great for a sunny pre-spring day.

As laughter and conversation circulated the table Wendy commented that she was going to start coming every Thursday. I'm beginning to notice food's power to bring people together—good food promotes good conversation, laughter, and a shared experience, no matter if it's meeting someone for the first time, or reconnecting with old friends. Another Perfect Pair.

Classic Chicken Parmesan

2010-02-26T12:24:00.000-08:00

Chicken Parmesan with 2008 Salmon Run Chardonnay Riesling: 5/5

2008 Salmon Run Chardonnay Riesling: 89/100

Growing up, my family ate a lot of chicken—grilled chicken breasts, creamed chicken and biscuits, chicken parmesan, roasted chicken, the list goes on. By the time I was twelve my dad was not shy about letting my mom know his feelings about having “chicken again”. With my dad apparently out of the house this past Tuesday, my mom adamantly claimed to me on the phone, “I’m making chicken parmesan.” Personally, I love chicken. You can grill it, fry it, boil it, bake it, mince it, shred it, even can it, and it will still taste good. So it was only natural that I would make chicken parmesan for Project Runway night.

Now, how many times have you gotten off of work, tired and hungry, and grabbed a jar of Prego or Ragu, and boiled some pasta to make pasta marinara? Up until last night, I thought making pasta sauce was some sort of full day event. Thoughts of old Italian women dressed in floor length dresses with flowing blouses, standing over huge pots, stirring all day, creating the perfect sauce. Well that might be a bit of an exaggeration, but it always struck me as something hard. It’s not. Here is a recipe for a fail safe marinara sauce: http://allrecipes.com/Recipe/Best-Marinara-Sauce-Yet/Detail.aspx If you like your sauce a little chunky, don’t purée everything together. To mine I added a chopped hot house tomato to the mix, adding some freshness and texture. You don’t have to use fresh parsley, but the flavor will be a bit more vibrant if you do. I’m telling you, you can make this sauce in the time it takes your water to boil and your pasta to cook.

Just like frying some bacon, pan fried chicken parmesan can get a little messy, but it’s well worth it. You can do a baked version if you don’t want to splatter oil all over your stove, but personally, I think pan fried takes on an extra crispiness that the oven just doesn’t provide. Start by slicing 2-3 boneless chicken breasts in half. If you’d like, you can flatten the halved chicken breasts by pounding, but it’s not necessary. Coat the halved chicken breasts with flour, then dip them into a bowl with 2 eggs and 1/3 cup of milk that has been whisked together. After the egg bath, dip them into a bowl of panko (or bread crumbs), dried basil, dried parsley, salt, pepper, and 1/3 cup of grated parmesan. Heat an oil coated skillet over a medium-high flame, and fry the chicken breasts until golden brown, about 7-10 minutes.

With the entire kitchen smelling of frying chicken, and simmering marinara, I waited for the chicken to finish, and then it was time to eat. Preparing everything took under an hour, not to bad for restaurant quality chicken parmesan. Topping Michael and I’s meal with some freshly grated parmesan, and slicing some fresh wheat baguette, we both sat with a sigh of relief for some relaxation.

As far as wine goes, chicken parmesan is one of those chameleon meals. Usually with a red sauce you would want to pair it with a red wine. But if it were just chicken, you would want white. It really depends on your mood. A Pinot Noir would bring out the vibrancy of the garlic and sweetness of the tomatoes in the sauce, while a chardonnay would add a crispness and bright quality to the meal. I just happened to still have a bottle of 2008 Salmon Run Chardonnay Riesling in the fridge, so I decided that would work just fine.

With a golden hue, and a vibrant aroma of delicate apple blossoms and pear, I swirled the Chardonnay Riesling, anticipating another great wine. Resting on my palate with a fruity flavor, and semi-sweetness from the Riesling, the wine left a lingering mineral finish, indicative of the Dr. Frank’s winery. Structured with the body of a Chardonnay I knew the wine would be able to stand up to the red sauce, and bring out the flavors of the chicken.

Piercing the crispy golden exterior of my chicken breast, I wasted no time scooping up some pasta and sauce, creating the perfect first bite. With the crunch from the panko, the sweetness of the tomatoes, and the bite from the parmesan, I was transported to that authentic italian restaurant my family used to frequent growing up in Rockford— the smell of garlic and wine lingering in the air, and the taste of marinara in my mouth.

Following the first bite with another drink of wine, the tomatoes took on an extra sweetness, while my palate was cleansed with the minerality in the wine. The fruitiness in the Chardonnay Riesling was not too sweet, nor the chicken to fatty, so both flavor profiles intertwined in my mouth creating a delicate dance.

Sopping up the rest of my sauce with my baguette, I was left with a pristinely clean plate. Finishing just in time for my phone to buzz with a text from Zack, I went back to the kitchen to fry up some fresh chicken. Zack was entertaining two visitors from France, and I thought it would be great to provide a home-cooked meal for two travelers. Both were surprised, and ecstatic about the meal, and I tried to stay humble about my excitement.

Unfortunately there was no new project runway yesterday, but with the French visitors, we decided that Julie and Julia would be a fitting movie to watch. Another Perfect Pair.

Pork Chops and Pinot

2010-02-25T13:45:00.000-08:00

Dijon Crusted Pork Chops with Asparagus, Cous Cous, and a salad of Pears, Endive, and Pecans with Pinot Noir: 5/5

2008 Pacifico Sur Pinot Noir : 85/100

2008 Valle Perdido Pinot Noir : 90/100

2008 Mud House Pinot Noir: 92/100

Sorry about the delay in getting this posted. These past two weeks have been very eventful, putting my interviewing skills to the test. Cross your fingers! Anyways, last Thursday I did a horizontal tasting of three Pinot Noirs, all of which were apart of the Bon Vivant Portfolio.

Since all three wines were Pinot Noir, I didn’t have to worry about making three different dishes to pair the wines with, but I wanted to make sure that what I chose would enhance, instead of compete with the wine. Finding an awesome deal on pork chops at Dominick’s, I decided that dijon crusted pork chops with asparagus, cous cous, and a pear and endive salad would provide the right amount flavor to accentuate the wine.

As far as pork chops goes, this recipe is a fail safe. http://allrecipes.com/Recipe/Dijon-Pork-Chops/Detail.aspx Only taking about 45 minutes to make, this would work well to just pop in the oven after you get done with a hard day at work. While this recipe calls for season bread crumbs, I used panko doctored up with some dried parsley, tarragon, salt, pepper, and a little basil. Panko just gets crispier and crunchier in the oven.

Usually when it comes to sides I am all about making things from scratch, but for cous cous, I’ve always liked the Near East boxes. With flavors like garlic and olive oil, and pine nuts and herbs, preparation is a breeze, and the taste is legit.

For the asparagus I just boiled some water and blanched some chopped stalks until they were the slightest bit soft, and then I strained and rinsed with cold water. Usually blanching requires and ice bath to stop the veggies from cooking, but cold tap water works well too.

Inspired by The Cheesecake Factory menu, I decided to make a salad of pears, endives, and glazed pecans in a lemon honey vinaigrette. For those of you who haven’t had endvie before, they can be found near the lettuce and green things, like cilantro. They are kind of like miniature hearts of romaine, but they have a softer consistency, yet hold their shape beautifully. For the salad I chopped the pear into cubes, combined the glazed pecans (I used emeralds pecan pie glazed pecans), and drizzled a little vinaigrette across the leaves. Shelbey, my veggie/vegan friend said it was one of her favorite things I had ever put together. Good doesn’t have to mean complex.

With my mind all over the place from doing interviewing, and thinking about the future, and what steps to take next, the whole meal only took about 50 minutes to make, and then it was time to sit down, relax, and enjoy some wine.

Sitting down to eat, Shelbey, Michael, and I each poured a different glass of wine. Since we are all close, we just decided to pass our glasses in a circle, tasting each of the three wines. If you are doing a tasting party at home and you don’t have a ka-jillion, wine glasses, or don’t feel like washing every dish in the house, you can set up a rinsing station, and tell each guest to rinse their glass before trying another wine.

WIth the smell of honey, and dijon mustard, wafting toward my nose, I was tempted to dig into my plate right away, but with some self control I made sure to inspect the wines.

First up, the Pacifico Sur from Chili. Lifting the glass to my nose I was met with a somewhat ethanol-y burn in my nostrils. After sitting in my glass for a couple of minutes, the ethanol gave way to raspberry and black cherry aromas, but I was hesitant to take a gulp right away. Holding the glass over my plate, the wine shown a ruby translucence, a common characteristic of Pinot Noir. Taking a swig, my palate was coated in a recognizable weight, that sent the sides of my tongue buzzing. After a gulp my throat resonated with an unfortunate burn. I would not classify a burning sensation as a sophisticated finish.

Moving on to the Valle Perdido from Argentina I was struck right away with the darker, richer color of the wine. Taking in the aromas I wasn’t met with any ethanol, but rather a fruit salad of cherries, raspberries, and tropical fruit—much more vibrant that the Pacifico Sur. Taking a gulp, the wine was not as present in my mouth as the Pacifico Sur, but still tickled the tip of my tongue before ending with a slightly fruity finish. Comparing the two, I would definitely choose the Valle Perdido over the Pacifico Sur.

Moving across the ocean into New Zealand, the tasting finished with the Mud House from Marlborough. Much more purple than the other two wines, I swirled my glass, evoking the wine’s aromas. Met with a spicy and fruity aroma, I was able to pick out raspberry and cherry. Taking a mouthful, I was met with a very well structured body that gave way to a lingering taste of cinnamon and cherries.

Paired with the pork chops and salad, the effect carried an overall light quality with it. The Pinot Noir’s were able to enhance the fruity, lemony flavors in the salad, while bringing out the anise flavor of the tarragon in the panko crust. Between Mike, Shelbey, and I, we decided that the Mud House was our favorite, followed by Valle Perdido, and then Pacifico Sur. For these three bottles, I guess price did mean quality. Feeling the buzz, conversation flowed as freely as the wine, and we all decided it was another perfect pair.

Swirl, Swish, Swallow

2010-02-20T07:35:00.001-08:00

One of my latest sponsors, Bon Vivant Distributing from right here in Chicago, IL, told me to take a look through their portfolio and see if anything caught my eye. The first thing I thought was a structured tasting.

For less experienced wine drinkers tastings provide a perfect way to experience the differences in wines. There are three primary types of tasting: general, horizontal, and vertical.

A general tasting can be done with any wines, with no restrictions. If you are a wine novice I recommend doing a general white wine tasting of Chenin Blanc, Pinot Grgio, and Chardonnay. This really lets your palate experience the differences between the wines. For a red tasting I recommend Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. When tasting be aware of the body of the wines and make sure to cleanse your palate between gulps.

Vertical tastings are tricky, and usually done on site at vineyards. Tasting the same varietal of wine, from the same vineyard, with the only difference being the vintage (year) is not always possible when perusing the shelves at your favorite wine shop. Showcasing differences in the weather, the soil, and the aging of the wine, vertical tastings really let you see that no two wines are created equal.

What we did this past Thursday was considered a horizontal tasting. With three different Pinot Noirs of the same vintage, 2008, we were to experience the differences between geography, climate, and soil. Now it is very important to have a group when doing a tasting. Just as each wine is different, so is each persons palate, so it is good to have to discussion when tasting to really realize what you are experiencing.

Grown in the Curico Valley, on the middle coast of Chili, the Pacifico Sur Pinot Noir, boasts a ruby red color, aromas of cherries and raspberries, and is said to have a smooth elegant texture with a sophisticated finish. Now sometimes I think winemakers say and write things because they sound good. Like sophisticated finish, how does a wine possess sophistication? Retailing at $13.99 a bottle, the Pinot would be the cheapest selection of the night.

Traveling just south west of Chili’s Curico Valley, the second Pinot Noir, from Agentina’s Patagonia region, was produced by Valle Perdido winery. With a red garnet color, aromas of red fruit, cherries, even tropical notes, and a well structured body and a lingering finish, the wine was a bit heavier in body than the Pacifico Sur. Being produced so close together, I was anxious to see what difference, if any, there would be. Retailing at $14.99 a bottle this was are middle of the road wine.

Completing the trifecta, the journey would end across the Pacific Ocean in Marlborough, New Zealand’s Centra Otago region, specifically at the Mud House Winery. Retailing at $24.99, this was the most expensive of the three wines. So does price always mean quality? That is what I wanted to find out. Described as having a bright ruby red color, aromas of berry compote, and sweet spices, and a palate of bright red fruit and a delicate acidity, I was anxious to see what type of differences soil and geography would play.

With tastings, food is important as well. A general tasting might need a light appetizer, a salad course, and a heavier entree. A vertical tasting can be paired with a single entree that fits the structure of the wine, and the same goes for a horizontal tasting as well. Generally speaking, Pinot Noir, is a lighter fruitier wine, and doesn’t stand up well to heavy stews and red meat, so I planned on making dijon crusted pork chops with asparagus, cous cous, and a pear and endive salad. With the night set, the fate lie in the bottles, would there be a perfect pair?

That's Amore

2010-02-12T12:50:00.000-08:00

Chili Rubbed Pork Tenderloin with 2007 Eos Estate French Connection: 5/5

2007 Eos Estate French Connection: 91/100

Pairing Eos Estate’s 2007 French Connection with Pure Dark’s™ cardamom allspice rounds would have been delicious in and of itself, but with Valentines day only two days away I wanted to see if I could push the culinary envelope a little further.

Inspired by an episode of Iron Chef where Duff Goldman stuffs a beef roast with chocolate and chili threads, I set out to infuse the chocolate with some meat. Now at first, I thought, I’ve had chocolate and bacon before, and with the added a salty element, the chocolate seems much more savory, but chocolate for a main course?

Usually I will find a recipe either in a cook book or online, but I really wanted to test what I’ve learned so far in my culinary expeditions, so after a couple of days of pondering I came up with something I thought would work perfectly. My plan? A chili rubbed pork tenderloin stuffed with Pure Dark™ cardamom allspice rounds, drizzled with a sherry and coffee reduction. On the side, pink champagne risotto, with a salad of arugula, strawberries, and roasted almonds in a lemon champagne vinaigrette. Sounds good right? Paired with the bottle of French Connection, the meal sounded romantic and delicious.

Since I didn’t really use any recipes, I can’t link you to other websites, so listed below are the instruction for making this romantic meal. Sorry about the length.

Being Thursday, Shelbey and Zach were both coming over, so I wanted to make sure there would be something substantial for them to eat, and the risotto was my answer. I’m sure you’ve all heard of risotto before, but for those of you who have never made it, risotto has that stick to your ribs quality like mashed potatoes, but can be infused with a broad range of flavors.

With the succulent smell of pork and spices melding with the champagne and coffee lingering in the air, the warm feeling of love circulated through the apartment, tickling our nostrils. As a culinary joke, I tried to incorporate as many aphrodisiacs as possible and the list included: chocolate, champagne, strawberries, almonds, arugula, coffee, garlic, vanilla, honey, and nutmeg. Needless to say there was romance in the air.

Slicing into the pork loin, the inside oozed with chocolate, and the pork looked perfectly juicy. Grabbing my handy dandy biscuit cutter I made a round of risotto on the upper left hand corner of the plate, with two slices of pork leaned against it. After a smear of reduction and a smattering of arugula, I fanned the strawberry as a last garnish, and the plating was complete.

Giving the wine a good 6 hours to breath I anxiously poured everyone a glass. In case you didn’t read below, the Eos Estate’s French connection is a traditional blend of red Bordelaise grape varieties consisting of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Verdot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc. Described as having dark notes of leather and cigar wrapper I lowered my nose for a sniff. Met with rich tones of tobacco and plum, the aroma combined with the cinnamon and spice lingering in the air, causing my mouth to salivate, and my heart to drop. I was in love, and I hadn’t even had a bite.

Taking a mouthful of wine, rich flavors of black currant and berries danced around my tongue, with the fullness of silk and noticeable tannins. With a lingering finish of tobacco I just knew the wine was going to bring out the flavors of the coffee and sherry.

Cutting into the pork tenderloin I made sure to get a bite with some chocolate. It was the moment of truth, would the dish be a success? As I bit down on the juicy bite of pork, my mouth was overtaken by a wave of sensations. A slow burning chipotle rose to the front before being whisked away by cinnamon, leaving allspice and cardamom tangoing on the tip of my tongue. The velvety texture of chocolate and the chewiness of the pork harmoniously coated my palate, while the faint bitterness of coffee worked its way through. Taking a bite of risotto and salad I was met with a refreshing acidity, with a slight bitterness from the arugula. With the added crunch of the almond and the sweetness of the champagne in the vinaigrette, the effect was mouth watering and cleansing, preparing me for another drink of wine.

With a playfulness the wine seamed to bring out a different flavor of the dish each drink—strawberry, cinnamon, chocolate, coffee. With upfront tannins my palate was not left feeling coated, but rather refreshed and ready for another bite of food. As our glass began emptying, the room started feeling a bit warmer, the light a bit dimmer, and the beating of my heart, a bit louder. I was in love, not only with the man sitting across from me, but also the dish in front of me.

With full hearts, full stomachs, and enriched palates we all sat down to watch project runway, though the show was drowned out with giggles and jokes of the “aphrodisiacs”. As the night came to a close, and the candles were blown out, one by one, the clear night sky reflected off a still lake Michigan—truly a romantic affair, and another Pefect Pair.

Pork Tenderloin - cooking time approx: 1 1/2 hours largely unattended

Ingredients

1 1½ - 2 lbs. plain, un-marinated pork tenderloin

1/3 - 1/2 cup Chili Rub - ingredients listed below*

1/3 cup Pure Dark™ Cardamom Allspice Rounds, or high quality dark chocolate discs.

Chili Rub

Combine all of the following and stir:

1 tbsp chili powder

1 tbsp cumin

1 tbsp cinnamon

1 tbsp paprika

1 tbsp salt

1 tbsp pepper

1 tsp nutmeg

1 tsp all spice -more if not using Pure Dark™

(1 tsp cardamom - if not using Pure Dark™)

1 tsp chipotle chili powder (optional, omit if spice sensitive)

1 tsp cayenne pepper (optional, omit if spice sensitive)

You can modify this rub, I recommend taking a small piece of chocolate dashed with some rub and trying the combination, then you can adjust to your liking. If you don’t have all of the above listed spices I recommend grabbing a Creole Seasoning from the store, like Zatarain’s or Tony Chacere’s, and adding some cinnamon and nutmeg to it.

Directions

Preheat oven to 325 degrees
Butterfly Pork Tenderloin lengthwise from end to end, so you are able to open the loin like a book.
Dust the inside of the loin with rub and layer chocolate throughout, overlapping pieces so there is a row of chocolate in the center of the loin.
Close and use remaining rub to coat the outside of the loin, massaging the seasoning into every crevasse.
Using toothpicks, secure the pork loin closed so the chocolate will not ooze out during baking.
Let the loin rest in the fridge for 1-2 hours before baking (optional)
Cook for 1 hour and 10 minutes in a 9 X 13 baking dish. Rotate pan once half way through cooking to ensure evenness. Allow the meat to rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Pink Champagne Risotto - cooking time approx: 45 minutes

Ingredients

2 tbsp of extra virgin olive oil

2 large shallots (or 1 med onion) chopped fine

3 cloves garlic minced

2½ cups of Arborio rice, found near the rice and beans in the grocery store.

1 bottle of Rose Champagne

4 cups of Vegetable / Chicken stock kept warm

Directions

Heat olive oil in a large pot.
Add shallots and cook, stirring often, until slightly translucent
Add garlic and 1/2 bottle of Champagne cook for 1-2 minutes
Add Arborio and stir continuously for 2 minutes
Add Stock 1/2 - 1 cup at a time, stirring often, adding more once Arborio has soaked up the majority.
Add the other 1/2 bottle of champagne, minus the one glass you drank already, remove from heat and cover until ready to serve.

Coffee and Sherry Reduction - cooking time approx: 15 - 20 minutes

Ingredients

1 cup of cream sherry

1 cup of brewed coffee

1 sliced strawberry

1 tbsp honey

1 tsp vanilla extract

Directions

add sherry, coffee, strawberry, honey, and vanilla to a medium sized pot over high heat
cook until reduced to a semi syrupy consistency, 15 - 20 minutes.

The reduction will have a bitter sweet flavor and is meant to be drizzled over the meat to enhance the flavors.

Baby Arugula Salad

Ingredients

3 - 4 cups baby arugula

1 cup roasted almonds chopped (recipe found here: http://www.recipezaar.com/Simple-Roasted-Almonds-108311)

1 shallot chopped fine

1/4 cup grated parmesan (optional)

1/2 cup lemon champagne vinaigrette (recipe follows)

Directions

In a small mixing bowl add small amounts of arugula, almonds, shallot, parmesan, and vinaigrette.
using your hand, mix the ingredients per plate, so that you can save what you don’t use for a later time, without having soggy arugula.
Fan a strawberry by slicing small lengthwise incisions along the strawberry and applying pressure to the base.

Lemon Champagne Vinaigrette

Ingredients

1/3 cup of champagne

2-3 tbsp of extra virgin olive oil

Juice of 1 lemon

salt and pepper to taste

Directions

1.combine champagne, olive oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper in a bowl

2.whisk with a fork until ingredients reach a state of emulsion.

Pure and Perfect

2010-02-11T14:27:00.000-08:00

Striking up a conversation with Emily, the daughter of a big wig with a company called the Gigunda Group, at The Tin Lizzie the other week, it wasn’t long before The Perfect Pair made its way into the conversation. Well lucky for me, Emily just got through opening a chocolate shop in Greenwich Village called Pure Dark™, and thought that featuring the chocolate here would be a great idea.

Saving the chocolate for a couple of weeks, I wanted to wait until now, Valentine’s week to tell you about this one of a kind chocolate shop.

About Pure Dark™

Now everyone knows about Hershey’s, Lindt, and Ghirardelli, and yes, while I am not going to turn down a Hershey’s Kiss or a Lindor Truffle, there is nothing like the taste of pure chocolate. That’s what Pure Dark™ is all about—”the purity of the pod”.

Now some of you probably already know that chocolate comes from cacao [kah KOW] beans, and cacao beans come from cacao pods that grow on cacao trees. Watching Alton Brown the other day I learned that cacao beans were originally ground and mixed with herbs and spices and drank by ancient cultures like the Mayan and Aztecs. As time progressed the drink was brought to Spain, gained popularity in Europe and finally in 1828, was turned into the chocolate we are used to seeing and eating today.

Started in 2008, Pure Dark™ set out to use only premium beans that contain intense flavor profiles, an homage to early chocolate makers. Instead of being massed produced in factories, Pure Dark™ handcrafts their chocolate in small batches, controlling the quality of the chocolate being produced.

Slabs

Slabs are just that, large sheets of chocolate that are cut in store. These slabs are made of dark chocolate and are served plain, with caramelized nibs and coarse sugar, or with roasted and caramelized nibs.

Barks

Barks are sheets of dark chocolate that are then combined with dried fruits, nuts, or nibs. Like peppermint bark, but darker, purer, and tastier. You can choose from Classic, topped with sour cherries, almonds, and caramelized nibs, Fusion, topped with crystallized ginger, roasted pecans, and caramelized nibs, or Island, topped with tropical mango, macadamia nuts, and caramelized nibs.

Fruits & Nuts

Fruits and Nuts combine sweet, salty, sour and bitter, by taking dried fruit, salted nuts, and chocolate covered cocoa nibs. Sounds like an explosion of flavor for your palate.

Rounds

Rounds are dark chocolate discs that are then dusted with spices. You can choose from Cardamom allspice, Chipotle cinnamon, and Raspberry Acai. Like Vogues Chocolate, these take the sweet and bitterness of dark chocolate and combine it with the exotic.

Nibs

Finally we have the nibs, which are roasted, crushed cocoa beans. With a flavor reminiscent of chocolate covered espresso beans, you can expect there to be a little grit, but a lot of flavor. They come in three varieties: Caramelized nibs, Dark chocolate covered nibs, and Roasted, caramelized and dark chocolate covered nibs.

Not going to New York any time soon? All the above listed items are available for purchase online at www.puredark.com

My samples

I received two generous samples of the Serious Dark Slab with caramelized nibs and coarse sugar and the Cardamom Allspice Rounds.

With an evocative and deep dark chocolate aroma, the Serious Slab, met my nose with a subtle smokiness and intense cocoa aroma. Crunching into bits of cocoa nib, and coarse sugar, the flavor began with dark chocolate before being over taken with the caramelized earthiness of the nibs, and the sweet pockets of raw sugar. Finishing with a bitter sweet and slightly smoky flavor, It’s hard not to take another bite right away. I would pair this with a smoky Malbec with aromas of tobacco and dark fruit. The wine would enhance the smokiness of the nibs while highlighting the sweetness of the sugar.

For a Valentine’s Day inspired meal, tonight I will be making an infusion of the Pure Dark™ chocolate round and Pork Tenderloin. I don’t want to give everything away, but paired with a bottle of 2007 Eos Estate French Connection, it will be a perfect recipe to woo your sweetheart with this Sunday. I can’t wait, its bound to be a perfect pair.

Not Your Cheese

2010-02-06T13:36:00.000-08:00

Gourmet Nachos with 2007 Eos Estate Zinfandel: 5/5

2007 Eos Estate Zinfandel: 91/100

I don’t know about you, but I like my cheese made from cows or goats, with all the fat included. Manipulating and flavoring soy into the consistency of Velveeta does not sound very appetizing to me. But luckily with a few Whole Foods close by, Shelbey was able to find Teese cheese http://www.teesecheese.com/sauces.php, for her vegan nachos this past Thursday. Just to forewarn you, for those brave enough to purchase Teese Cheese, I highly recommend having someone else prepare it for you. Packaged similarly to sausage, the initial overwhelming soy smell, along with the excess liquid that bursts forth from the package upon puncturing, is enough to make you loose your appetites. (Maybe that’s why vegans are so skinny).

Forecasting a semi-bum of a meal from the vegan nachos, I decided to make some gourmet nachos as well, to pair with a bottle of 2007 Eos Estate Zinfandel. Zinfandel, known for it’s ability to stand up to big bold flavors, won’t have a problem with greasy cheese, cumin, chili powder, tomatoes or avocado, just be careful when it comes to the Jalapenos.

When craving nachos, many times I just grabbed a jar of salsa, some Tostidos, some pre-packaged grated cheese, and maybe some ground beef, but with all day to cook I wanted to do everything from scratch. At Pastoral, a great wine and cheese shop just down the street from me, I got some Prairie Breeze Cheddar from Iowa, with a nice sharpness, and some Asiago Fresco from Italy, perfect for melting.

Trying to keep as healthy as possible for Shelbey, I decided to make my own tortilla chips. All you have to do is preheat an oven to 400 degrees, spray some tortillas with some non-stick spray, cut them into quarters, and bake for 5-7 minutes, until slightly golden brown. Of course you can dust with some salt or spices if you want, but I kid you not, that’s it. No oil, no frying, and you still get all the crunch.

Next up, guacamole. Personally, store bought guacamole tastes disgusting, I don’t know what they put in their to keep the avocado from oxidizing, but what ever it is, it makes my palate shrivel. If you’ve never made guacamole before, I recommend ordering it table side form an authentic mexican restaurant and watch how simple it is. All you have to do is core and chop 2-3 avocados, add 1/4 a cup of finely chopped white onion, 1-2 table spoons of diced cilantro, the juice from 1/2 a lime, 1 teaspoon of salt, and pepper to taste. Simple. If you want it spicy, add some diced jalapeno, but be careful of the seeds.

Keeping things simple, salsa doesn’t have to be complicated either. Since it’s no fun trying to scoop soupy salsa up from your plate, when it comes to nachos, I recommend making things a bit chunky. Chop 2-3 large tomatoes, half of a green pepper, and half of an onion. Put everything in a bowl and mix in a 1/4 cup of tomato sauce (or tomato juice), 2 table spoons of sugar, 1-2 table spoons of cilantro, and salt and pepper to taste. To add some depth I added a pinch of chipotle chili powder, which gave the salsa a slightly smokey flavor.

Finally to add some protein, I whipped up some fajita style chicken. After coating 2 chicken breasts with some salt, pepper, cumin, and chili powder, I popped them into a skillet with some oil. After 5-7 minutes of cooking I added some julienned red and green pepper. After the chicken breasts were completely cooked, 15 or so minutes, you can either chop it into strips or, if you are feeding lots of people, shred it by taking a fork and scrapping, prong side down, along the muscle grain of the chicken.

When it came time to eat, the smell of peppers and chicken competed with the Teese cheese, melding into soy flavored fajitas. Drizzling florescent orange sauce over the chips, and topping with guacamole and salsa, Shelbey’s plate looked like nachos, but I was still hesitant about the outcome. As Michael and I’s cheese melted in the oven, I poured some wine and put the condiments on the table. Craving sour cream, I tried to keep the container as far away form Shelbey as possible.

Swirling my glass of fairly opaque ruby wine, I noticed some substantial legs, indicative of the Zinfandel’s 15% apv. Taking in the aromatics, I was met with a strong plum aroma that gave way to a jammy blackberry. With noticeable acidity but an overall velvety weight, the wine coated my palate, enveloping even the miniscule crevasses. Complete with a gulp, I was left with a lingering oaky and smoky aftertaste.

Completely confident in my pairing, I tried my gourmet nachos first. With smoky cumin, and chili powder the chicken was met with the sharpness of the cheddar before mellowing out to the zesty avocado and sour cream. Tingling my taste buds, the acidic salsa popped against the crunch of the tortilla chips, all with a light saltiness. Compared to store bought ingredients, everything rang with freshness.

Cutting through the fat of the cheese and avocado, the wine’s subtle tannins left the palate cleansed, while the fruit forward flavors brought out the sweetness of the tomatoes and lime. Able to stand along side with out overpowering, I now fully understand why Zinfandel is a beautiful mate for big flavors.

Mustering up the courage to try Shelbey’s nachos, I yanked a Teese Cheese covered chip off of her plate. Was it as bad as I expected? No. With a fairly recognizable “nacho” flavor, similar to that of ball park nacho cheese, when mixed with the salsa and guacamole, the underlying soy-ness took a back seat. But After Shelbey likened the consistency to that of Creme Brulee after resting away form the heat, I decided one taste was enough for me.

As the feast came to a close, I began feeling the warmth from the 15% apv starting to kick in—definitely a dangerous wine. While we all waited for Project Runway to start, conversation buzzed about our dimly lit apartment. Good friends, good food, good wine—another perfect pair.

Sweet Potato Sabotage

2010-02-04T12:22:00.000-08:00

I had my first cooking failure. Now usually I treat cooking like abstract art—turning mistakes into masterpieces, leaving nothing unsalvageable, but this was pretty unsalvageable. Consisting of pork chops, sauteed spinach, and sweet potato latkes, all drizzled with a sherry and garlic reduction, my envisioned meal sounded delicious. Paired with a bottle of 2008 Eos Estate Private Reserve Chardonnay, my veins pumped with anticipation.

Finding a recipe out of How to Cook Everything by Mark Bittman for Sauteed Pork Chops 8 ways (http://www.howtocookeverything.tv/recipe.php%3Fnid=68.html) , I wasn’t really concerned with the pork chops falling flat. This recipe is straight forward and easy to follow. (The link above, does not include the sherry and garlic sauce, but in step three, instead of adding butter, add 1 table spoon of garlic, and a 1/2 cup of not-to-dry sherry—I used cream sherry. Let the sauce reduce until it reaches a syrupy consistency and add the parsley, olive oil, and lemon juice.)

Then came the Sweet Potato Latkes. Now I’ve said multiple times, that when it comes to online recipes, make sure you use the ones that have high ratings, and good reviews. Not taking my own advice, I found this shady website: http://bullets-and-beer.com/recipes/SweetPotato.html. With a simple layout, no room for comments or reviews, and a sweet potato pancake recipe, followed by a sweet potato latke recipe, I really don’t know what I was thinking. But I read over the recipe, and it sounded simple enough, so I didn’t give it a second thought.

Luckily my smoke detector is hiding, because man was I producing a lot of smoke. Browning pork chops on the stove top requires hot oil and a hot pan. Once the chops were down, the kitchen was flooded with sizzling, searing, and smoking. Keeping my cool, I tried to be patient with the chops, allowing them to brown, which keeps all of those valuable juices inside, but in the back of my mind, thoughts of fire trucks zipping to my building looped indefinitely. Living in a high rise, its hard not to feel like big brother is watching some times.

Once the chops were set to simmer, I moved on to the sweet potatoes. Preparing everything ahead of time, all I had to do was take the potato mixture out of the fridge and begin frying. Now here is where things started to go awry. After heating some vegetable oil in a skillet I started with two small latkes. Giving them some time to brown, I went ahead and tried to flip them, but guess what, they fell apart in the pan. So scrapping the first round, I thought about what to do with the rest of the mixture. I asked Michael if adding some more flour, or another egg would help keep the mixture hold together better, and after a bit of research we decided that an egg might do the trick.

While mixing the egg, I turned to the skillet, only to notice yet more smoke, billowing out of the left over bits of sweet potato in the pan. Yanking the pan off the heat, the fire trucks started screaming in my head again, but I took a deep breathe and continued on. After cleaning out the pan, I heated some more oil, and placed one latke in the skillet. Noticing some brown edges I crossed my fingers, and went to flip. Success (although short lived). With the residual oil left in the skillet flaked with darkening bits of sweet potato I was faced with a dilemma. Should I spend time starting with fresh oil for every latke, or should I try to cook the sweet potato mixture into hash browns? With the pork chops almost done, I opted for the hash, only to discover that with out frying, the amount of lemon juice made the potatoes taste like pine-sol. Fed up with the ordeal, I popped a fresh sweet potato in the microwave, and sent the hash to the trash.

With the reduction sauce coming together beautifully, and the spinach perfectly sauteed, I shook off the sabotaging sweet potatoes, and plated as I had envisioned, sans the latkes. Pouring a glass of wine, I was ready to relax and enjoy.

Swirling the greenish-gold Chardonnay, I noticed the legs coat the glass like corn syrup, indicative of the very high alcohol content. Lowering my nose to smell, I was met with light floral aromas with an underlying warmth of caramel and citrus. Coating every crevasse of my mouth, the wine lay heavy on my palate with an oaky presence, but did not lack in acidity. Taking my first swallow, I wasn’t left with a lingering bitterness, but a soft finish with a slight caramel overtone.

Diving into the chop, I stabbed a good hunk of pork coated with the reduction, and some spinach. Presenting my palate with a flavor over load, the reduction was sweet and salty, while the pork provided a base, and the spinach some bitterness. Having the added freshness from the sweet potato provided a contrasting spectrum of flavors, and helped the pork avoid monotony. While it probably would have been better with the latkes, the sweet potato served its purpose, and was healthier than the oil soaked alternative.

Completing the tasting, I took another mouthful of wine. With caramelly features, the wine was able to bring out the layers of flavor in the reduction, while standing up to the fattiness of the meat. Bringing out the lighter floral overtones, the sweet potato enhanced the Chardonnay with its contrasting flavors. Leaving me with an overall warmth and comfort, the kitchen catastrophe was soon just a memory.

I’ll probably try sweet potato laktes again in the future, but the task will not be done without trepidation. But with so many recipes out there, there is bound to be a better one. Any suggestions? All in all, the meal ended with ease, and was yet another perfect pair.

Ecstatic for Eos Estate Winery

2010-02-03T17:02:00.000-08:00

18 pounds 0 ounces. No, not the weight of some grotesquely large baby. The weight of the box of wine I received from Eos Estate Winery. Lugging the package upstairs, I whipped through the door and sliced right in, exposing 7 bottles of Eos wine. Running on pure elation I showed Michael, displaying the wines like trophies won from some intense competition.

Having to finish reviewing Lynfred Winery, I looked over the Eos wines all week, each bottle peaking my interest for possible pairings. But before getting into the food, there are some really important things to know about EOS Estate Winery.

History

Originally built in 1985 in Paso Robles, California, Eos Estate Winery was purchased in 2007 by Jeff Hopmayer of Sapphire Brands out of Franklin, Tennessee, and is currently a part of the Saint james Company. Named after the Greek Goddess of the Dawn, Hopmayer wasted no time continuing the wineries extensive portfoilio. With new ownership also came new direction, and the winery made drastic changes very quickly.

Converting the vineyard to run 100% on solar energy, Eos now stands as the largest winery in California’s Central Coast to run solely on alternative energy. Not stopping there, Eos made a goal to plant 50,000 new trees in 2009 by donating a dollar to American Forests’ Global ReLeaf program for every bottle of wine purchased.

“At Eos, we take our responsibility to the environment seriously. We integrate environmental practices into our business every day,” said Hopmayer. “We need trees to survive. We are doing our part to help replace the trees that have been taken by nature or man.”

Wines

Most known for their Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and late harvest Moscato, Eos has received a long list of awards for many of their wines. Averaging about $19 dollars a bottle from www.eosvintage.com, Eos Estate wines aren’t the cheapest out there, but they won’t suck your bank account dry either.

2008 Eos Estate Reserve Chardonnay - $20

Produced by some of the oldest Chardonnay vines still producing in the Central Coast, this Reserve Chardonnay is greenish-gold in color, with bright floral and citrus blossom aromas, that lead to a rich and smooth palate. Consisting of an alcohol content of 14.5%, this Chardonnay is truly something special.

2008 Eos Estate Chardonnay - $13.50

A combination of Chardonnay grown from several high quality vineyards throughout the central coast region, with a touch of Pinot Blanc, this Chardonnay boasts aromas of citrus blossom and pear, with an added crispness from the Pinot Blanc.

2007 Eos Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon - $32

With intense aromas of new leather, star anise, and crushed cassis, this Cabernet is intense on the palate, with rich blackberry and herbal flavors, and ends with a cocoa and espresso finish. I think I will be waiting for a special occasion a couple years down the road to try this wine.

2007 Eos Estate Zinfandel - $18

Boasting a nose of plum and dark berry pie, this Zinfandel floods the palate with acidic fruits of cherry, raspberry, and strawberry, before leaving with a floral and oaky finish—a product of warm days and cool nights.

2006 Eos Estate Petite Sirah - $18

Opening with plum, raspberry, and blueberry with hints of licorice, smoke, and leather, this Petite Sirah is truly a star. Coating the palate in velvety dark blackberry, cassis, and blueberry, the wine finishes with silky textures of leather, smoke, and chocolate.

2007 Eos Estate French Connection - $18

Getting it’s name from the traditional red Bordelaise grape varieties, this wine is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Verdot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc. Beginning with aromas of new leather and cigar the wine coats the palate with a rich texture and flavors of black currant and dried plum.

Pairings

With such a full bodied Chardonnay I’ll be pairing the 2008 Eos Estate Reserve Chardonnay with pork chops, sauteed spinach, and sweet potato latkes, drizzled with a garlic sherry reduction. The citrus aromatics and heavier body should stand up to the fattiness of the pork chops, and awaken the garlic and sweetness of the reduction.

Tomorrow Shelbey has coaxed me into making vegan nachos, but she doesn’t know I plan on making gourmet nachos as well. Paired with the 2007 Eos Estate Zinfandel, the wine will stand up to the fatty cheese, and add depth to the to the dishes simple structure.

Continuing on to next week, I will be having my first double feature with Pure Dark™ chocolate from, New York. Pairing their cardamom and allspice rounds with the 2007 Eos Estate French Connection, the result is sure to be a treat, fit for a romantic Valentine’s day.

Check back for the next Perfect Pair!

Hungry Hungry Hungarian Apple Soup

2010-01-29T10:59:00.000-08:00

Hungarian Apple Soup and Lynfred Winery’s Vin De City White: 4/5

Lynfred Winery’s Vin De City White: 58/100

With a not so stellar experience with Lynfred Winery’s Vin De City Red, I was hesitant to try the Vin De city White. Now all things considered, Illinois does not have the climate to produce a note worthy red, right now it’s 11 degrees, with sub zero winds. But a great white wine can be produced in a colder climate, so I held a glimmer of hope for my second pairing.

Having to work during the day yesterday, trudging through the icy weather to and from work, there was no way I was going to leave the house twice to make a special trip to the grocery store. So I was faced with the dilemma of dinner upon rolling out of bed. Since Shelbey and Zach, my veggie friends, were coming for dinner, I had the added task of finding something vegetarian friendly.

After flipping through Better Homes and How to Cook Everything with no avail, I hit the internet, google searched “ best vegetarian winter recipes”, and landed on Hungarian Apple Soup (http://www.eatingwell.com/recipes/hungarian_apple_soup.html). Chalked full of nutritious apples and veggies, I even found a reviewer who swapped sweet potatoes for the yukon gold. Sounded interesting, but apples, onions, sweet potatoes and sage? Would they all go together.

Hesitating a moment, I decided to give it a shot. After a short shift at work, and a quick pit stop at the grocery store, I was back in the comfort of my home, watching slow moving tendrils of steam rise off neighboring high rises. I think I’m ready for spring.

Just as allspice and nutmeg make meatballs Swedish, the Hungarian element in this soup is paprika. Probably Hungary’s number one exported spice, Paprika is made from various dried peppers similar to chili powder or cayenne pepper. Dependent on the pepper used, paprika can be very spicy or slightly sweet—my paprika was a medium red color, and not too spicy. As with any spice, you can always add more, but it’s harder to take away, so taste as you go.

Described as having aromas of toasty apple and pear, I thought if anything would enhance the flavors of the wine, an apple soup would do the trick. Corking the bottle, I was met with an upfront aroma of apple, and surprisingly no burning sensation of ethanol. Maybe their was hope after all. Letting the wine chill, I headed back to the soup.

The recipe above only makes two servings, but is very easily doubled. After a good 10 minutes of peeling and chopping, the bulk of the work was done. Simmering in a bath of vegetable stock the smell of sage and paprika ransacked my nostrils and caused Shelbey to question what was cooking from the sofa. Putting my nose close to the soup, the sweetness of the apple and onion melded with the sage, producing an intoxicating aroma almost good enough to bottle.

When I made tomato soup a couple weeks back, I told you about my immersion blender, well this was another excuse to use it. Now a regular blender would work just fine, but there would be the chance that you would spill hot soup all over yourself and your kitchen, so having an apparatus to put into the pot just seems safer and cleaner. If you like your soup extra smooth I recommend passing it through a sieve to eliminate any inconsistencies.

To accompany the soup I warmed some pita bread with a bit of olive oil in a pan, giving the dish a further European flair. After adding the sour cream the soup took on a muted orange color, very pretty against white porcelain. Finishing the bowl off with a dollop of sour cream and a pinch of fresh parsley, the presentation looked almost professional, if I do say so myself.

Pouring a glass, I was surprised by the wine’s slightly brown canary color, hopefully created by the oak, and not by oxidation. Giving a swirl, the legs streaked down the sides of my glass instead of breaking apart into beads—a positive sign. Bringing the glass to my nose I was met with the aroma of ripe crab apple, with an slight hint of pear and lemon, much more indicative of the mid-west, than the red wine’s black cherry. Swishing around a mouthful, I was overcome with an overwhelming bitterness, but a left with a lingering apple finish.

Taking a spoonful of soup, the warm liquid coated my palate with a unobtrusive sweetness, and a underlying earthly herb flavor from the sage. Comparable to a pumpkin soup, or squash soup, the apple flavor was not the star of the dish, but contributed to the overall balance. Not to salty, or spicy, the soup was thick enough to feel substantial as a vegetarian entree. If I make the soup again I will probably add another apple to see if the over all effect is any different.

Trying another sip of wine, the over all effect was much less bitter, due to the sweetness of the soup. The apple flavors of the wine evoked the apples in the soup, and left a pleasant aftertaste. Although I would have to say the wine was a bit unbalanced, when paired with the soup the overall effect was enjoyable.

Shelbey, Zach, and Michael all loved the soup, but Shelbey traded the rest of her wine for a cup of coffee. Unfortunately, with all of the award winning wines that Lynfred Winery has in their portfolio, the Vin De City White and Vin De City Red were not very notable. Retailing at $10.00 a bottle, you are better off finding a bottle of Barefoot on sale. I’m anxious to try some other selections from the winery, and maybe when I make it out there when the weather is warmer, I will sing a different tune, but for right now, I will continue to search for the next Perfect Pair.

Semi-Lynfred Let Down

2010-01-28T08:03:00.000-08:00

Swedish Meatballs and Lynfred’s Vin De City Red: 4/5

Lynfred’s Vin De City Red: 54/100

Having the day off, Michael and I lazily lounged about the apartment—outside the day was cast in a gray monotony, scattered with flecks of gentle snow. Finally gaining enough momentum, we decided to go and get something to make for dinner. Featuring Lynfred Winery this week, I was a bit unsure of what to pair with a “table wine”.

As I flipped through The Better Homes Cookbook, I thumbed to the meats section, littered with titles like Hamburger Pie, and Chili-Pasta Skillet, not exactly what I was looking for. Then I scanned across Swedish Meatballs, and was automatically transported to Ikea. If you’ve never indulged in a plate of swedish meatballs from ikea, I’d at least do it once. I never feel as Swedish, or quite in the mood to furniture shop, as I do with a stomach full of Ikea’s meatballs.

With the thought, I was sold. Now the recipe out of Better Homes was a little to processed for my tastes—using bouillon cubes, and store bought bread crumbs, so I hit the internet and found Alton Brown’s Swedish Meatball recipe (http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/alton-brown/swedish-meatballs-recipe/index.html) As with most Alton Brown recipes you can expect higher quality ingredients and exact measurements. Does that mean the recipe will not turn out delicious if you make your meatballs larger than 1oz? Of course not, but I have to hand it to Alton, his food can be practically cloned if you follow his recipes to a T.

Traditional Swedish Meatballs are made with ground pork and beef, but looking to save a buck, I decided to substitute ground venison for the pork. (but that’s kind of killing a “buck”, isn’t it?) My mom and dad live on a ranch in the middle of nowhere, just south of the Wisconsin border, and with solitude comes deer, especially in the mid-west. Not big hunters themselves, my parents allow their friends to come and hunt on the land, and once or twice a season, are rewarded for their kindness with an abundance of venison. When I make it home, my mom doesn’t let me leave without a good couple pounds of free meat—fine by me.

If you’ve never cooked with venison, you’ll be surprised to find how lean it is. Alone, venison has a gamey flavor, but when mixed with ground beef or used in chili or sloppy Joes, you won’t even notice. Not caring for the flavor when I was younger, my mom became a professional at disguising venison, and as she would say, “It’s good free meat, we can’t just let it go to waste.”

So what makes Swedish meatballs, Swedish? Nutmeg and Allspice. When mixed in with the meat balls, the flavors seep out into the grease while they are frying in the pan. And when the gravy is made with the leftover drippings, it takes on a warm spicy undertone, indicative of Swedish Meatballs.

Since I was pairing a table wine I thought the subtle warmth of nutmeg and allspice would bring out the vanilla and cherry in the wine. Allowing my bottle to breathe, I corked it before I started cooking. Taking an initial whiff of the bottle I was met with a strong ethanol aroma, like sniffing a bottle of vodka, which made me a bit concerned about the quality of the wine.

Adding the cream into the pan, my gravy took on a warm carmel hue and sent smells of onions, nutmeg, and beef floating about the apartment. As the gravy reduced, I prepared Michael and I’s plates with rice and green beans. Have you ever wondered how restaurants get their rice to hold such a wonderful shape? It’s easy, take a biscuit cutter, or small shallow bowl, and pack in some rice, good and tight. The starches in the rice will hold like glue so when you lift your bowl, a nice “rice castle” will be left behind, and your presentation will look clean and professional. Topping my rice castles with meat balls the plates were complete and ready for photography.

Pouring a glass of wine, the aroma of black cherry and oak met my nostrils with a slight burn. With a semi translucent reddish purple hue, I noticed the legs of the wine begin to separate instead of streak down the side of my glass. Examining my glass, I could not find anything that would be making the wine do this, but as soon as the wine hit my palate I knew what the culprit was. Having a very high ethanol concentration, the Vin De City Red attacked my palate with a harsh, burning sensation of a very young Cabernet Sauvignon. With high levels of acidity, and a noticeable astringency, my first swallow caused my face to twist a bit—not exactly what I was expecting.

Followed by bite of meatballs, the warm underlying spice was able to tame the burn in my mouth from the wine, making the flavors of cherry and vanilla more present as the meal continued. Sending little rushes of nutmeg and onion around my palate, coated in a rich creamy gravy, the meatballs were, do I dare say, better than Ikea’s—not to fatty, or salty. Combined with the wild rice and green beans, the result was a meal I didn’t have to feel guilty about eating.

Following my first bite with another sip of wine, my palate was more accepting, but still a bit reluctant. In my mind a pairing should enhance both the food and the wine, and with this I think the food played a lion taming role. Unfortunately I have had many better $10.00 wines. Just in case the wine needed an exceptionally long time to breathe I saved a small glass for lunch today. Although better than last night, the harsh presence was still over powering.

What will the Vin De City White hold? Hopefully a Perfect Pair.

Lynfred—a local winery

2010-01-27T11:33:00.000-08:00

Illinois doesn’t necessarily come to mind when thinking of wine, especially Chicago. But nestled in the suburb of Roselle is Lynfred Winery, Illinois’ oldest and largest continuously operating bonded winery. Once I found out they were so close to home, I made my greatest effort to contact them about a sponsorship. To my surprise, my excitement was shared, and before I knew it a bottle of Lynfred Winery’s Vin De City Red, and Vin De City White were at my door, complete with an artistic rendering of Chicago’s skyline.

Debating on visiting the winery for a first hand tour, I decided that I would get much more out of a visit when it’s not 14 degrees outside with a wind chill of -10. So I hopped on their website and did a little research.

History

Opened in 1979 by Fred and Lynn Koehler, Lynfred Winery began in a restored historic residence housing an expansive cellar with 18 inch thick wall, capable of standing up to the harsh Illinois winters. 1985 brought home Lynfred’s first double gold chardonnay at the Reno Wine Competition. Ranging from classic red and white varietals, to fruit wines, such as plum, apricot, and blueberry, Lynfred has been taking home metals ever since. Expanding in 2002, Lynfred Winery now includes a tasting room, bed and breakfast, and gift shop, drawing in visitors from around the world.

The Wine

As we have seen, there are no set rules when it comes to wine making. While wineries such as Dr. Konstantin Frank believe in vinifera (pure) wine, for others, like Oriel it’s about location, scouting out the best wineries and wine makers. For Lynfred Winery it all boils down to taste. Selecting “the finest” grapes from California, Washinton, Michigan, and Illinois, Lynfred wine makers are able to produce the over 50 varietals, from the comfort of home. Now is that cheating? Some would probably say so, but if it tastes good, who cares. All wines are available for purchase on their website at www.lynfredwinery.com

Contact

Lynfred Winery is located at 15 S. Roselle Road in Roselle, IL and is open from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. 7 days a week, with cellar tours conducted between 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. January through October. Stranded in the city with out a car? The winery is a short mile walk from the Roselle stop of the Elgin bound Metra train.

The Featured Wines

Retailing for $10.00 a bottle, Vin De City Red is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Described as having aromas of cherries, vanilla, spice, and soft oak, the wine has a medium body, and an alcohol content of 12.5% Suggested as a perfect everyday wine, I will be pairing this wine with Swedish meatballs, wild rice, and green beans.

Also retailing for $10.00 a bottle, Vin De City White is a blend of Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. With aromas of toasty apples and pears, and a medium body, this wine is recommended for veal, pork roast, and rosemary, but I think I will be pairing it with a heavier vegetarian dish.

Look back tomorrow for the first review, hopefully it will be a perfect pair!

Multi-cultural Menagerie

2010-01-23T11:32:00.001-08:00

Seafood Paella and 2006 Oriel ‘Mana’ Sauvignon Blanc: 5/5

2006 Oriel ‘Mana’ Sauvignon Blanc: 89/100

When talking about dinner the other night I recommended Cafe Iberico, one of Chicago’s best places for Spanish tapas and paellas. With an authentic Spanish decor, a meat and cheese market, reasonably priced food, and delicious sangria, I’ve never had a bad experience at Iberico.

But with a bottle of 2006 Oriel ‘Mana’ Sauvignon Blanc, from Marlborough New Zealand to pair, I decided to bring Cafe Iberico to me. Usually if we go to Iberico we’ll get an assortment of tapas, and maybe a paella to share, but it would be hard to make a small assortment of appetizers, with out dirtying every dish in the house, so I decided to make a seafood paella instead.

Traditionally a workers dish, paella has grown to become a staple of Spanish cuisine. Once made in the fields over an open fire for workers to eat as they pleased, paella is now served in most households in Spain, and paella competitions are held yearly— I would compare it to Barbeque of the south or pizza from different coasts. What makes most paellas special is saffron.

Saffron is the dried stigmas of the saffron crocus. Each flower only bears three stigmas (saffron threads), making saffron one of the most expensive spices in the world. Entering the grocery store I headed straight to the spice isle, afraid I wasn’t going to be able to find any saffron. I guess it was my lucky day, 1 gram of saffron was marked down from $18.99 to $9.34. I know, I know, I know, 10 bucks is still a lot for a gram of a spice, but the great thing about saffron is a tiny bit goes a long way.

Now the recipe I was following (http://find.myrecipes.com/recipes/recipefinder.dyn?action=displayRecipe&recipe_id=225789) called for white fish, jumbo shrimp, and little neck clams. Snagging a pound of shrimp for $3.00 and a 1/2 pound of white fish for $4.00 I decided to save my money and skip out on the clams, which I found out Michael doesn’t like anyways. Deciding to use my homemade fish/chicken stock versus, the clam juice broth, I cut down the cost of the dish some more. When all was said and done I spent about $30 dollars, but the dish feeds 8 people, making it under 4 bucks a serving, and I was looking forward to leftovers.

As I described yesterday Oriel’s 2006 ‘Mana’ Sauvignon Blanc retails for $20.00, which is usually more than I spend on wine, so I wanted to make something of the same caliber. Now you might think, Spain is basically on the opposite side of the world from New Zealand, but both Valencia, Spain (where paella is most popular) and Marlborough, New Zealand are near salt water, which mean seafood. While I would consider Spanish food to be a bit more exotic than traditional Maori cuisine, ‘Mana’s’ minerality, acidity, and tropical flavors crave the exotic.

Since I am not the owner of a traditional paella pan, I decided to break the recipe in half between two large skillets, which made cooking very labor intensive. When it comes to complex recipes like this, it is very important to make sure you’ve prepped properly. Read through the recipe a couple times, chop your veggies before anything goes near heat, and grab all the spices you will need to use, so you don’t leave one out. A fancy cooking word for all of this is preparing your “Mis En place” (putting in place), which will expedite the cooking process, and leave your attention to the dish, instead of the shrimp you forgot to de-vein.

You remember that smoke detector from last week? It’s gone.

Sizzling peppers, garlic, onions, and herbs sent an intoxicating aroma throughout our apartment, which unfortunately lingered around all of yesterday too. Taking on the distinctive golden yellow color from the saffron, I added the broth to the rice and veggies, letting the flavors intertwine. After the the rice was cooked near al-dente I arranged the fish, shrimp and pimento on top, and covered with a towel, allowing the heat to finish the cooking.

Keeping to tradition, I brought the entire skillet to the table with and served with a wooden spoon. Talk about a vibrant dish, carmine pimento yielded to green peas and yellow rice with pops of pink shrimp.

Awakening the aromas of the wine, I gave my glass a swirl. Met with bright ripe fruit flavors of melon with a back bone of slate, the aroma was warming and refreshing. Taking my first generous swig, my palate was coated in tropical flavors with a bright acidity. Swallowing, I was left with a crisp finish and a slightly chalky after taste.

Grabbing a bit of everything on the plate I practically shoved the fork into my mouth. Vibrant onions and peppers danced about my tongue before being swept away by hearty shrimp and peas. A well balanced dish, with bright lemony overtones, I was transported to Cafe Iberico, the bustling dining room, and then off to Spain, the smell of salt water in the air.

Following the bite with another sip of wine, the Sauvignon Blanc was able to enhance the acidity in the dish, creating vibrancy and awakening the palate. The brightness of the wine was not overpowering, but rather brought out the floral quality of the saffron, and the low hum of paprika and red chili.

Left with an entire left over skillet of paella, Michael packed some for lunch the next day, while I wrapped the rest and put it into the fridge. Buzzing in a saffron glow, our apartment felt warm and relaxed, like a cool spanish night. As Project Runway finished on the T.V. I thought of New Zealand and Spain—I really want to travel. For right now I will have to settle for traveling through food—another perfect pair.

A Bit About Oriel Wines

2010-01-22T13:52:00.000-08:00

There’s nothing better than walking through your front door to a bottle of wine. Receiving a voicemail from my door man, letting me know I had a present waiting for me at the front desk, I was very excited to get home from work. Lo-and-behold, dropped off by the Chicago distributor himself, a bottle of 2006 Oriel ‘Mana’ Sauvignon blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand sat waiting for my arrival.

Now Oriel Wines is not your typical winery, instead of investing time and effort producing the wines in one geographical location, they are wine scavengers, scouting out the best vineyards and wine makers around the world, and let me tell you, they are getting some awesome acknowledgment for their product. Is that cheating? I’m sure some would say so, but what other winery can say their wines come from Spain, Germany, California, France, New Zealand... you get the picture. I would just call them resourceful.

According to Oriel, “making great wine is like making great food—to make a little with the very best ingredients is possible, to make a lot is not.” So instead of producing barrels and barrels of wines, they hand make small amounts, assuring quality and specific characteristics. Now I’ve had many great wines that are “mass” produced, but when you are working on such a mass scale I am sure it’s not very hard to loose quality.

Every where from Food and Wine Magazine to The Chicago Tribune, and even Rachel Ray has something to say about Oriel wines, and the proof is in the review. Receiving the title as one of “the years best Chardonnays”, Oriel’s 2006 Russian River Valley Dylan Chardonnay was given 94/100 by Wine and Spirits Magazine, for it’s ripe fruit, layering flavors, and sophisticated minerality.

So what about the bottle I received?

Produced by Ant Mackenzine of Oriel and Spy Valley Wines in New Zealand, ‘Mana’ is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. A traditional Maori (Mow-ree: the indigenous inhabitants of New Zealand) word meaning “the ethereal substance from which magic is formed and souls are made”, Mana boasts a passion fruit and ripe melon aroma with hints of mineral, and bright flavors of tropical fruits.

I’ve actually had the opportunity to visit New Zealand, and we had a short visit in Marlborough. With picturesque sunken valleys, breathtaking mountains to the south and the edge of the island to the north, the geographical location is ideal for wine making, especially Sauvignon Blanc.

Acknowledging the importance of the Island’s history, there’s no surprise that a Maori word has made it’s way onto a wine. In my visit to New Zealand Maori influence and culture was still recognizable throughout both islands.

Receiving a 9-9.5 out of 10 points from Alder Yarrow of Vinography, 88 points from Wine Enthusiast, and 87 points from Wine Spectator this wine was not scored as highly as Dr. Konstantin Frank’s 2007 Dry Riesling of New York, but still scored fairly well.

Retailing for $20.00, you can purchase this wine on Oriel’s website, (www.orielwines.com.) and have it shipped to your door.

Pairing

With a tropical fruit and bright mineral flavor, I would recommend pairing this wine with baked white fish with fennel and carrots, seafood dishes, lightly spiced thai food, or with a delicate lemon sorbet. With a fairly pronounced acidity, ‘Mana’ would be able to stand up to some heat but not super spicy mexican or thai cuisine, and would definitely fall short if paired with super fatty meat, or a rich dessert.

For my pairing I made a seafood paella with shrimp and white fish. Check back later for the review, it’s bound to be a perfect pair!

Savory Saturday Scallops

2010-01-18T10:12:00.000-08:00

Coquilles St. Jacques a la Parisienne and 2007 Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling: 5/5

2007 Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Rielsing: 93/100

Arriving home, I discovered the newest addition to our cook book collection tucked away in Michael’s Borders bag—Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Receiving so much publicity these days from Julie and Julia, Julia Child’s classic culinary capsule received a well deserved second wind this past year thanks to Meryl Streep, Amy Adams, and Julie Powell. I won’t lie, there is a large chance this blog would not have been started if it hadn’t been for Julie and Julia.

So keeping with the importance of the week, I decided to make a recipe to pair with Dr. Konstantin Frank’s highly acclaimed 2007 Dry Riesling. Retailing at $17.99 a bottle, this wine won double gold from the New York State Fair Wine Competition and The Big E Wine Competition, gold from the Los Angeles International Wine Competition, and received a score of 93/100 from Wine & Spirits Magazine—truly the fruit of Dr. Frank’s labors.

Described as pairing well with shellfish, I asked Michael to thumb through Mastering and pick out something shellfish-y for dinner. Meant to be devoured, rather than thumbed through, Mastering the art of French Cooking, is unlike the cook books we are used to seeing on the shelves today. Rather than lists and lists of recipes all organized into categories, Mastering, builds upon itself, using prose and techniques in an accumulative progression, more like a novel than a reference book. Having said that, Michael handed me the book opened to Coquilles St. Jacques a la Parisienne (Scallops and Mushrooms in White Wine Sauce) http://www.bigoven.com/72221-Coquilles-St-Jacques-a-la-Parisienne-recipe.html. Traditionally the recipe functions as a first course, so I decided to make some basic risotto (http://culinaryarts.about.com/od/ricegrains/r/risotto.htm) to substantiate the meal.

To quote Julia, “This is a book for the servantless American cook who can be unconcerned on occasion with budgets, waistlines, time schedules, children’s meals, the parent-chauffeur-den-mother syndrome, or anything else which might interfere with the enjoyment of producing something wonderful to eat.”— basically a cook book for most gay men in their 20‘s today. But let me just tell you, she wasn’t lying. Costing $14.99 a pound, the scallops took care of the budget, the entire recipe consumed a full stick of butter, taking care of the waistline, and while some recipes can be set aside to cook all day, this recipe required almost 2 hours of uninterrupted attention. Was it worth it? Every bite.

Creating a truly cohesive meal, I used the Dr. Frank Dry Riesling in both the risotto and the scallops, hoping to transfer some of the acidity and minerality to the dish. Finishing in the broiler, the scallops bubbled and browned, sending the smell of swiss cheese and shallots out the door and into the elevator. Our poor neighbors must be hungry all the time. Using some left over greens, I decided to make a wilted salad to top the dish, providing bitterness that would juxtapose the rich and smooth flavors of the meal.

Sitting and salivating, Michael snapped some pictures while I plated my dish. Making the composition pop, the cream colored scallops and risotto stood in an enjoyable contrast with the purple and emerald greens—probably one of the prettiest dishes I’ve made yet.

Inhaling over the wine, I was met with the aroma of bright citrus and mango that gave way to apple and pear blossoms. Noticing a greenish yellow hue, I swirled my glass, watching noticeable legs tear down the sides. Taking a mouth full I was met with a a bright acidity, not as overpowering as the Rkasiteli, and a pronounced minerality. Swallowing, I was left with a lingering dryness and slatey flavor, like having put my tongue on a piece of limestone.

Cutting like butter against the weight of my fork, I speared a scallop. Gathering a bit of everything, I took my first bite. With a rich creaminess the risotto provided a needed texture, which gave way to the buttery smooth scallops. Providing depth and contrast the greens added a needed salty bitterness which awakened all the areas of my tongue.

Following the first bite, I sipped the wine again. Awakening the wine in the dish itself, the Riesling created a harmonious quality in my mouth, like icing on a cake. Having a lingering dryness the Riesling was able to keep my palate fresh for each new bite of scallops, while the mushrooms and greens provided depth to the lighter flavors of the wine. Every bite, and every sip, only added warmth and harmony to my palate.

Weighing heavy in our stomachs, Michael and I decided on a very small second portion to pair with the rest of our wine. As I cleaned the dishes, I thought a little about Julia Child, and how different food must have been in 1950’s France. That’s another joy of cooking at home, you truly get to see what goes into the dish, and recreate a little bit of tangible history. Another Perfect Pair.

Lasagna Love

2010-01-15T19:20:00.000-08:00

2008 Salmon Run Pinot Grigio and White Lasagna: 5/5

2007 Dr. Konstantin Frank Rkatsiteli and Stuffed Mushrooms: 5/5

2008 Dr. Konstantin Frank Cabernet Franc and Vegetarian Lasagna: 5/5

2008 Salmon Run Pinot Grigio: 90/100

2007 Dr. Konstantin Frank Rkatsiteli: 87/100

2008Dr. Konstantin Frank Cabernet Franc: 90/100

“To new friends, to old friend, to boyfriends, and girlfriends.” Clinking our glasses over steaming slices of lasagna, we all laughed in nervous anticipation of the evening to come. Lifting the first bite to my mouth, I stole a peek of everyones face. A first bite is like meeting someone for the first time, it’s either love or hate, and fortunately everyone’s faces said love.

Since I’m featuring such important wine this week, I wanted to make some food with some importance. So talking over dinner plans on Monday with my new co-workers and friends, Victoria and Lauren, I inquired about favorite foods. Once lasagna left Victoria’s mouth, the debate was over. Lauren and Victoria were to bring stuffed mushrooms for appetizers, I was going to make lasagna, and Michael, dessert.

Having 8 wines to choose from, the problem was not having too few wines, but rather, too many (but that’s not really a problem). Reading through the wine descriptions, I wanted to make sure to choose wines that would compliment the food perfectly.

Since Shelbey and Zack, my veggie friends, were coming for Project Runway Thursdays, I decided to make two lasagnas. A vegetarian lasagna I found on Recipe Zaar (http://www.recipezaar.com/Vegetarian-Lasagna-14684) in a red sauce, and a white lasagna in a prosciutto cream sauce with wild mushrooms (http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/porcini-and-prosciutto-lasagne) found on the Food & Wine website. Pairing well with red sauced pasta dishes, Dr. Frank’s 2008 Cabernet Franc, retailing for $19.99, was the perfect match for the veggie lasagna, and the 2008 Salmon Run Pinot Grigio, retailing for $9.99, lends itself to light cream based pasta dishes, like white lasagna. Can you get more perfect than that?

So the evening was set, all I had to do was cook, and let me tell you, there were a lot of steps. Making two completely different lasagna’s, requiring two different sets of prepped ingredients, and two different kinds of noodles, was a bit time consuming. But luckily for me, I had the whole day to prepare, and with Michael at work, it was just me and the stove.

Michael and I’s smoke detector has a mind of it’s own. Around 7 o’clock I decided to put the lasagnas into the oven. Since the vegetarian required 45 minutes at 350, and the white required 20 minutes at 425, my plan was to cook the veg for 20 minutes at 350 and then have both finish together at 425. But apparently when living in a one bedroom apartment there is enough carbon monoxide released from a 400+ degree oven to piss of the smoke detector. So you are probably thinking, why don’t you just take the battery out? Well it’s wired into the ceiling, so the most you can do is press the cancel button, putting it into stand by for two minutes before it starts yelling again. So the lasagnas finished cooking together at 375, with no screaming smoke detectors.

Running a little behind Victoria and Lauren arrived as the lasagnas were finishing, so we just ate everything together. So after the toast it was time to get down to some serious business—eating. Calling my name, I started with the Pinot Grigio and white lasagna. With a lively aroma of lemon lime with a hint of fresh cut grass, I swirled the wine and sniffed, and sniffed again. Coating my palate with a nice medium body, the Pinot Grigio had structure, and acidity comparable to a fresh granny smith apple. Biting into the white lasagna, my mouth was coated in rich cream and salty prosciutto, with an underlying earthiness from the mushrooms. Following the bite with another swig of wine, the marriage was warm and comforting, like a fleece blanket. Enhancing the delicate flavors of cream and mushroom, the lasagna rang with a renewed freshness, before being wiped clean from the acidity of the wine.

Next up, the mushrooms. Victoria was kind enough to modify her recipe to include a vegetarian option. Both mushrooms were covered in a remoulade sauce, one with crab and crab stuffing, the other with a potato stuffing. Having such a pronounced flavor like crab, I decided to pair the shrooms with the 2007 Dr. Frank Rkatsiteli, retailing for $17.99. Forewarned by a reader, Rkatsiteli is not your every day wine. Taking a whiff, I was met with a spicy yet fruity aroma. Coating my palate, the sides of my tongue went wild from acidity, while my palate rang with a fruit forward flavor. Biting into a mushroom, the crab and remoulade cut through the lingering acidity, while the oils mellowed out the tinny-ness of the wine. Taking another drink, the wine cleansed the palate, keeping the mushrooms fresh.

Completing the trifecta, I finished the meal with the vegetarian lasagna and Cabernet Franc. I have to be honest, I was a bit concerned when I first smelled this wine. As recommended, I let the wine breathe for a couple of hours before consumption, but didn’t wait to smell. Met with the fragrance of my grandmother’s prune cocktail, at first the wine wreaked of a mix between an old folks home and a spice cabinet, but after a couple of hours the profile completely changed. Developing more depth, the prune turned to plum, and the spices were warm and inviting. Showcasing subtle tannins and a structured medium body, the Franc coated my palate with a lingering finish. Followed with smooth ricotta, al dente zucchini, and a warm herbiness, the lasagna did not leave me missing meat. Sandwiching the bite, the wine brought out the complexity of the lasagna’s herbs, while creating a harmonious rich flavor.

As nine o’clock rolled around, the new season of Project Runway sounded form the T.V., Michael hit the kitchen to finish his Snow Ball Cupcakes, and the rest of us plopped in the living room. Transformed in a span of a couple of hours, we were no longer strangers, we were friends, brought together by food. Another Perfect Pair.

Dr. Konstantin Frank Week on The Perfect Pair.

2010-01-12T17:03:00.001-08:00

As some of you may already know, yesterday I received a very generous shipment from Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery in New York. Lugging the 23 pound box to my apartment, my insides gurgling with excitement, I wasting no time getting into my apartment and ripping open the package. Reading through the list of the wine included my eyes scanned over 8 wines. 8 wines!

As a service to Katie Cornelius and Fred Frank, I am featuring Dr. Konstantin Frank wines all this week. But before any food is made, I just want to take a minute to tell you a little about the winery.

Overview:

History

Fleeing a destruction ridden Europe during World War II, Dr. Konstantin Frank decided to uproot his family to America. After a short spurt working as a dish washer in New York City the Frank family moved upstate, where Dr. Frank worked for the Gold Seal Vineyard until he started Vinifera Wine Cellars in 1962.

Determined to grow vinifera (pure) wines of northern Europe, Dr. Frank helped transform New York from a sweet wine producer of only a few dozen vineyards, to a multimillion-dollar industry of fine wines, currently with over 200 vineyards state wide.

Handed down from generation to generation, Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars is still family owned and operated to this day by Dr. Frank’s grandson, Fredrick Frank.

Location

On the west banks of the Finger Lakes, Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery is located at 9749 Middle Road in Hammondsport, New York, about 1 hour and 45 minutes south east of Rochester. The winery is open daily, year round.

Publicity

Dr. Frank winery has been featured on NBC’s Today Show, and ABC’s Good Morning America, and written about in Time Magazine, and The New York Times. Dr. Frank was listed as the “greatest wine producer in the Atlantic Northeast” for 5 years running by the Wine Report, and have had multiple double gold wines from various nation-wide competitions.

Wines

Originally having only one label, Dr. Konstantin Frank now boasts three: Dr. Konstantin Frank (1962), estate grown vinifera grapes, Chateau Frank (1980’s), specializing in sparkling wines, and Salmon Run (1993), more affordable wines produced with viniferas from nearby vineyards.

The wines I get to choose from are from the Dr. Konstantin Frank and Salmon Run labels:

2008 Dr. Konstantin Frank Cabernet Franc

Described as having notes of roasted red pepper and prune, this Cabernet Franc rests on the palate with subtle tannins and ends with a smooth, long finish.

2007 Dr. Konstantin Frank Rkatsiteli

Pronounced rah-KAT-see-TELL-ee, this wine, native to Russia and Georgia, is now the second most planted white grape after Spain’s Airén. Dr. Frank’s boasts flower, herb, and typical spicy aromas, with a crisp acidity, and a fruit forward flavor.

2007 Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling

Given a rating of 93 points from Wine & Spirits, this dry Riesling is described as having, crisp acidity, a pronounced minerality, and notes of mango, citrus, and pear blossom.

2007 Dr. Konstantin Frank Gewürztraminer

With an array of aromas—grapefruit, lime, lychee, banana, and spice, this Gewürztraminer starts with honey and ends with a slatey finish, characteristic of Dr. Frank’s vineyards.

2008 Dr. Konstantin Frank Semi Dry Riesling

Sending out a bouquet of flowers and pears, this crisp semi dry Riesling, coats the palate with citrus and peach, before ending with a fruity finish.

2008 Salmon Run Rkatsiteli

Completely fermented in stainless steel to capture characteristics of tropical melon, this Rkatsiteli presents both tropical and traditional notes, with an elegant dryness.

2008 Salmon Run Chardonnay Riesling

49% Chardonnay and 51% Riesling, this blend strikes the nose with plum, melon, citrus, and hazelnut, coats the palate with a creamy texture, and holds out with a lingering finish.

2008 Salmon Run Pinot Grigio

With a goal of producing a traditional tasting Italian Pinot Grigio, this wine begins with delicate honeydew, lime, and lemon aromas, followed by tart green apple and gooseberry flavors.

Where to buy Dr. Konstantin Frank Wines

All Dr. Frank wines are available for purchase on their website at www.drfrankwines.com and are distributed in Illinois by Bon Vivant Distributing at www.bvdwines.com

Keep an eye out this week for two posts featuring Dr. Konstantin Frank wines!

Short Rib Satisfaction

2010-01-10T12:56:00.000-08:00

Short Ribs and 2007 Cellar No. 8 Zinfandel: 5/5

Cellar No. 8 Zinfandel: 89/100

“I love meat,” Michael said ripping into the hunk of beef, a carnivorous burning in his eyes. When asked what he wanted for dinner last night I was met with Michael’s one word response—meat. I couldn’t help but agree, nothing says winter like some good stewed meat.

Now not all cuts of meat are created equal. When talking beef, a cow is broken up into 7 primary sections: chuck, foreshank and brisket, rib, short loin, sirloin, short plate and flank, and round. Depending where the meat comes from, depends on what the cut is called. A ribeye steak, obviously comes from the rib of the cow, where a T-bone comes from the short loin. Some cuts lend themselves better to braising like pot roast, while some are better from grilling like the filet mignon. For a wonderful picture, visit this website: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/83/BeefCutTenderloin.svg

After thumbing through The Better Homes Cookbook and How to Cook Everything, I landed on a short rib (from the chuck of the cow) recipe that sounded, simple and splendid. As Mark Bittman mentions, short ribs are tuff and lend themselves to braising or cooking in liquid vs. grilling. Since my cast iron dutch oven was starting to feel neglected, I thought Bittman’s Short Ribs simmered with Potatoes and Mustard recipe, http://www.recipezaar.com/Short-Ribs-With-Mustard-Potatoes-and-Onions-91091, would be a perfect meaty treat, and a great excuse to use the dutch oven.

Now, in some cases red meat may pair just fine with a heavier bodied white, but in the case of a good hunk of fatty beef, white doesn’t stand a chance. With four hefty short ribs, each with a fair amount of marbling, I was going to need a red with at least and alcohol content of 13.8% with notes of dark fruit, pipe tobacco, and chocolate.

As some of you know, the alcohol content in wine comes from the murderous nature of yeast. Like a serial killer, yeast metabolizes (murders) the sugar, and breaks it down into alcohol and carbon dioxide—the more sugar murdered, the higher the alcohol content. But this process takes time and attention, and when reaching the shelves, usually translates to higher price tag. Although the short ribs probably deserved a $60 dollar bottle of wine, my bank account was singing a different tune.

Scrounging the wine isle I tried to find something that would fit the bill. Finding nothing in the Cabernets and Merlots, I moved to Zinfandel. No, not White Zinfandel, most commonly associated with the box in your mom’s refrigerator, traditional Zinfandel. Primarily a California based wine, Zinfandel is known for its bold, concentrated flavors of dark fruits, and heavier body.

There, on the top shelf nestled next to Sin Zin, was a bottle of 2007 Cellar No. 8 Zinfandel. Out of Sonoma County California, Cellar No. 8, part of Asti Winery, specializes in only red wines. With an alcohol content of 13.9%, and described as having a nose of cigar, leather, and chocolate, the wine was everything I was looking for. Originally $12.99, the wine was on sale for $9.99, which kept my bank account happy as well.

A final side not about heavy reds. Allowing heavy reds to breathe is a must. Not only will the wine open up, revealing more intense aromatics, the flavor profile will change as well, usually for the better. For our anniversary last year Michael got me a Vinturi Wine Aerator, which aerates the wine per pour, saving you the breathing time.

Speaking of aromatic, as the beef simmered on the stove, tendrils of onion and wine wafted about the apartment straight into Michael and I’s already grumbling stomachs. Turning the short ribs every 15 minutes was an act of self mutilation, until, finally after 2 hours of agony, everything was almost ready to enjoy.

Listed after the recipe was a modified version of the short ribs recipe with a horseradish reduction sauce. Not really caring for horseradish, I decided to make the same reduction sauce, but with more dijon mustard instead. After removing the meat and veggies from the cooking liquid, I boiled the liquid, allowing it to reduce, and added 2-3 tablespoons of dijon mustard. Once the liquid was thick enough to coat the back of the spoon, the sauce was ready.

Topping our plates with rice, I served the the mountain of meat and veggies family style. Piling up my plate, my mouth dripped in anticipation, waiting for the glistening meat to softly caress my palate. The sauce smelled of sweet wine and mustard, and as I spooned it over everything, my stomach growled, I’m not even kidding.

The the short ribs were tender and spongy, like an inflated pot roast. The meat met my mouth, releasing its rich fatty juices with an underlying base of carrots, celery, and onion. Soaking up the flavors of the meat and veggies, the potatoes provided a perfect heartwarming texture to the meal.

Cellar No. 8 was not lying when it came to aroma. With heavy notes of sweet tobacco and earthy leather, smelling the Zinfandel was like walking into a cigar shop in a new leather coat. With some fairly noticeable legs, and a faint ruby translucence, I was a bit worried that the body would stand up to the meat. To my surprise, the subtle tannins weighed equally in a harmonious nirvana.

Together the rich earthy flavors of the wine provided a further back bone to the short ribs. The sweet mustardy reduction was able to bring out the rich spicy flavors of the Zinfandel, without over powering the subtle tobacco undertones.

Feeling satisfied, we decided to leave some leftovers for today, which I am going to eat right after finishing this post. Another great thing about this recipe, it only required one pot, and a handful of dishes, making clean up a breeze. As Michael and I polished off the wine, and put on the White House Iron Chef we missed last week, we buzzed with satisfaction—another perfect pair.

Turned Up Tomato Soup

2010-01-07T15:51:00.000-08:00

Chipotle Tomato Soup and 2008 25 Lagunas Malbec: 5/5

2008 25 Lagunas Malbec: 90/100

Spoiled this Christmas, my good friend Rocio got to spend the holidays in Mexico, but now that she is back to sub zero Chicago, I thought soup was in order when she invited me over last night. Now some of you may read this, go to the cupboard, and grab a can of Campbell’s, but hear me out.

Growing up I was probably no different from you, when my family was looking for a heartwarming meal on a cold afternoon, a can of Campbell’s chicken noodle or tomato soup fit the bill. When my mom did make soup from scratch it was usually potato, split pea, or chili, but never tomato. So until yesterday, I thought tomato soup must have been a challenge to make.

So with the idea in mind, I hit the cook books, found the soup section in Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything, and thumbed through to tomato soup. (This recipe is very similar: http://allrecipes.com/recipe/tomato-soup/detail.aspx) There, to my surprise, was a recipe involving two steps. Two steps? But two steps isn’t hard, there are more steps in frying an egg. The recipe only required 30 minutes, and Bittman even suggested using canned tomatoes unless tomatoes were in season, so the only chopping required was for carrots and onions.

Now since Rocio had some left over authentic tacos she was planning on preparing, I wanted to add a little something to the soup to compliment the authentic mexican flavors. The answer? Chipotle. No, not the McDonald’s owned burrito chain, the pepper. For those of you unfamiliar with chipotle, it’s a smoked jalapeno that provides an excellent slow growing, smoky heat.

The reason I want you to contemplate Campbell’s the next time you go for something quick, is the fact that you could have fresh tomato soup in practically the same time, with a fraction of the salt and twice the flavor. After the onions, carrots, and tomatoes finished sauteing in a skillet I transfered everything to the crock pot for portability, added the vegetable stock, and pureed with my hand held blender. Now you can use a regular blender if you don’t have a hand held, or you can leave it chunky, but if we are talking traditional, pureed is the way to go. That’s it, really, and if you make a large enough batch you can put some in the freezer for the next cold week.

To add a bit of texture, I whipped up some croutons out of the leftover garlic bread from Michael’s spaghetti last week, yet another simple thing to do. Heat the oven to 450, cut the bread into cubes, lay them on a cookie sheet, and bake until golden brown, rotating once while cooking.

Thinking that the Crock pot would be a perfect way to transport the soup to Rocio’s, I packed myself up, and set out for the train. About 4 block from my house the crock pot, full of sloshing soup, started getting heavy. I could have taken a cab, but didn’t grab cash, so I clenched my biceps and trudged on. When I made it to the train, about 8 block later, my arms were screaming, but the soup was secure.

To stick with my south of the border theme, I decided to pair my spicy tomato soup with a $10 bottle of 2008 25 Lagunas Malbec from San Juan, Argentina. Malbec, Argentina’s signature wine, is known for it’s plum and berry characteristics, medium body, and earthy tannins. Having an alcohol content of 13.5% the nice medium body of the 25 Lagunas would not over power the soup, while the ripe fruit flavors would bring a complexity to the tomato and stand up to the chipotle.

Making my way to Rocio’s apartment, I felt my arms turn to jello and my fingers start to shake. With her apartment in sight, I took one last deep breath and completed my journey without dropping a teaspoon. Inside her studio apartment, the pale gray walls buzzed with friendship. Zack, having visited Argentina this past year, was excited after discovering the Malbec.

Needing a moment to breath, the Malbec sent a very alcoholic blackberry scent into my nostrils, only to be replaced by a warm inviting nose of ripe plum and berries. As Shelbey assembled bowls of soup in the kitchen, I topped each with croutons, and passed them along to the gang of hungry masses scrounging for places to sit in the living/bedroom. As we settled on the bed, futon, floor and chairs, I gave my soup a stir, and my wine a swirl and I was ready to dig in.

With a bright acidity and a much needed crunch from the croutons, my throat was filled with a warm stream of tomato-y goodness. Slowly growing spicier by the bite, the chipotle accented the authenticity of the tacos, like a grilled cheese does with classic tomato soup.

With some pretty noticeable legs, the wine lay heavy on my palate, coating it in rich fruit flavors with an earthy undertone. Lingering in my mouth, the tannins left me with the remnants of earthy tannins—truly a wine you could loose your nose in.

Combating the smokey heat, the Malbec was able to stand up to the chipotle without overpowering the flavor of the soup. While cutting through the acidity, the wine’s presence was made known, but let the rich tomato and herb flavors of the soup shine through. Where the soup may have grown monotonous after a bowl, the wine brought out the depth and complexity of the ingredients.

As we sat, occupying every where except the bathroom, everyone talked and laughed, sharing each others company in the tight living quarters. Even without a dining table, good food is able to unify old friends and mere acquaintances. With the lingering flavors of chipotle and dark fruit, I smiled, reflecting on another perfect pair.

Fairly Fruitful Fish Feat

2010-01-04T15:06:00.000-08:00

2008 Fetzer Pinot Grigio and Rainbow Trout: 5/5

2008 Fetzer Pinot Grigio: 85/100

There it lay, lifeless on the cutting board, staring up at me with it’s cold dead eyes. Constantly trying to push myself beyond my comfort zone in kitchen, I began flipping through the culinary rolodex of things I hadn’t done, when I stopped at F, as in fish.

As you can read, I have made fish before, but I always wimp out and buy the already prepared portions from the grocery store. Never have I actually bought an entire fish, and prepared it myself. Never, that is, until yesterday.

Flipping through the pages of my Better Homes Cook Book (just a side note: if there is any cook book worth having it is the Better Homes Cook Book. It’s easy to understand, there are tons of pictures, conversion charts, emergency substitutions, and none of the ingredients are ridiculously hard to find. Seriously buy it. It’s like $16). Anyways as I was flipping through, I opened to the fish section, and found a delicious sounding recipe for Red Snapper with carrots and fennel. http://www.bhg.com/recipe/seafood/red-snapper-with-carrots-and-fennel/

A while back I made a fennel and radish salad, a Top Chef recipe, and ever since then I have been looking for an excuse to use it again. So I thought, perfect, I’ll bone a fish, and get to use fennel. Now fennel is a beast of a vegetable, and is kind of broken down into three parts: the bulb, the fronds, and then the seed (although the seeds are usually sold separate in stores). The whole bunch of it tastes like anise, black licorice, but while the bulb can be cooked like celery, the fronds lend themselves better to salads. So as a side dish, I thought a mixed green salad with fennel fronds, raisins, walnuts, and a champagne vinaigrette would compliment the flavor profile of the fish.

Only one problem, the grocery store didn’t have any Red Snapper. The only whole fish in stock were rainbow trout and white fish. Now as I was reading from Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything, fresh fish, should not smell, their eyes should not be sunken in, and they should be a vibrant color, not translucent. With sunken red eyes, an a milk white discoloration, the white fish did not scream fresh, but the row of rainbow trout seemed to shine with an iridescence. According to the Better Homes Cook Book, rainbow trout is a bit more delicate tasting than red snapper, but would still soak up the flavors of the fennel and carrot nicely.

As Michael started on a milk chocolate malted milk ball cake to take over to my friend Lisa’s house later that evening, I unwrapped the brown paper concealing the fish. So, technically speaking, de-boning a fish is as easy as 1,2,3. If you do purchase an entire fish with scales from the grocery store, I would recommend asking the butcher to de-scale the fish for you, other wise you will be finding scales in your apartment until the end of the lease. First, make an incision along the backbone in front of the back fin. Second Make a second vertical incision just behind the gill. Finally slide your knife over the ribs releasing the filet. Sounds simple right? Well it wasn’t too bad. Even with my brand new incredibly sharp knife, the skin still put up a fight beneath my blade, but I was able to hack off two decently sized filets.

Sale tags lined the liquor isle like leftover confetti from a new years eve party, obviously the Dominick’s I frequent had not sold quite the amount of merchandise they were expecting for the holiday. Good news for me though, I was able to score a $12.00 bottle of 2008 Fetzer Pinot Grigio for 9 bucks.

Described as having notes of apple, pink grapefruit , and lime sorbet, I thought the lighter fruity flavors would compliment the delicacy of the fish, while bringing out the anise flavors of the fennel. With a beautiful straw color, this oaky Pinot Grigio looked to be a delicious match.

Living in close quarters with anyone requires a good deal of patience and compromise, and although Michael and I have a great working relationship, it is not without our fare share of “marital bickering”. Attempting to convince Michael to put the cake on hold for a minute so we could sit down and eat together, was harder than boning the fish, but with some persistence we both sat in front of our steaming filets, glistening greens, and smooth sweet potatoes.

Soaking up the delicious anise, onion, and carrot flavors, the fish was phenomenal. Flaky, fatty, and tender to the fork, each bite was bursting with a rick buttery texture, with complimenting al dente veggies. Providing a subtle bitterness, the salad played opposite the rich and creamy sweet potatoes.

Singing from the glass, the wine rang out with strong notes of pink grapefruit that yielded to smooth apple flavors. With an alcohol content of 13%, the body was the right match for the weight of the fish. Swishing a gulp around in my mouth, the wine resonated with the strong acidity of a fresh grapefruit, which cleansed the palate between each bite.

Seeming to bring out the complexity in the wine, the subtle fattiness from the fish masked the wine’s acidity, allowing me to experience the wine’s subtle lime and apple notes, with even a hint of fresh cut grass. In the same way, the wine’s acidity brought out the earthy flavors in the greens, with out tasting bitterness on my palate. Truly a great example of food and wine pairing.

As Michael rushed about the kitchen, piling cake layers, and mixing frosting, I polished off the rest of the wine. With a pile of dishes left in the kitchen sink, we left the apartment with feeling full and satisfied with a frosted cake and some party games for the evening. Bearing the cold I reminisced on yet another perfect pair.

Celebrating with Southern Style Spaghetti

2010-01-02T13:24:00.003-08:00

Southern Style Spaghetti and 2007 Francis Ford Coppola Shiraz: 5/5

With a busy restaurant comes long, tiring shifts, and as I looked at my schedule for this week, I had no idea when dinner was going to fit in. But alas, on New Years Eve, with a shift during the day, I had the evening free for some food. What’s that? No crazy party charging $45 at the door for a complimentary champagne toast at midnight? No thank you, I had my fare share of tourists this week, I didn’t need to spend New Years with them too.

So as I was debating dinner, I gave Michael a ring on my way home, where he told me he had everything to make his southern style spaghetti, if I just wanted to stop and grab a bottle of wine. Sweet, I didn’t even have to go home and cook.

Now what makes Michael’s spaghetti southern is the smorgasbord of untraditional ingredients. The sauce starts with some sauteed garlic and onion, nothing out of the ordinary. Then comes green pepper, stewing tomatoes, celery, ground hamburger, tomato sauce, spices, and the kicker, ketchup. Once the ingredients are combined the sauce cooks over low heat for 30-40 minutes, and then 10 minutes before serving, mushrooms are added.

The result, a mix between spaghetti sauce, sloppy joes, and stew. Is it delicious? Of course. Is it traditional? Not at all. But as Michael will tell you, that is how his MeeMaw (Grandma) used to make it, and that is what he grew up with. So, who am I to say any different.

As I entered the grocery store to get some wine, it looked like a post apocalyptic scene from a zombie movie, most of the shelves were bare, and the remaining customers moved silently and quickly, seeing as the store was closing in a few short minutes. Making my way to the liquor isle I found the entire population of the east side of Chicago, trying to make last minute ‘09 purchases, to help ease the pain of yet another new year. Luckily most people were after hard liquor or bubbly, so I didn’t really have a problem when it came to red wine.

Since Michael’s spaghetti is sweeter rather than savory and garlicky, I wanted to find a red that would compliment, instead of overpower the sauce. If it were a traditional spaghetti sauce, a heavier bodied merlot or cabernet would work just find, but I wanted a nice medium body.

I’ve seen lots Francis Ford Coppola wines in the store before, but after I read another blog ranting about celebrities that choose wineries based on location rather than quality I have always been apprehensive to try any of the Coppola wines. Now price doesn’t always mean quality either, especially when a celebrities name is pasted on the merchandise. Coppola wine are no different. Usually costing $12-$22 in stores, the price screams scam to me. But surveying the isle my eyes rested on a bottle of 2007 Coppola Shiraz, with an alcohol content of 13.5%, meaning the wine would have a nice medium body. The price? $9. Feeling the human walls closing in on me, I thought the wine was an excellent choice, grabbed a bottle of bubbly, and made my way to the check out.

When I got home the house sung of onions, garlic, and herbs. Since I work from late morning to dinner, I am usually left ravenous when I get off of work. So to my stomach, the house smelled like heaven. Michael weaved around the kitchen, adding more ingredients to the pot, while I plopped down on the couch to rest my tired legs.

When it came time to eat, I popped the cork on the bottle, only to discover some seepage. For those of you who don’t know, some problems that come from using cork, and a reason why the Australian and some American wineries are switching to screw tops, is that corked bottles have a greater chance for spoiling. If you have ever ordered a bottle of wine at a restaurant the waiter should present you with the cork, this is done so that you can see if the wine has seeped up the cork. If seepage occurs there is a likelihood that the wine has been exposed to air and has spoiled. Seepage can occur from storing the bottle on its side for too long, or using a poor quality cork. The seepage on our cork did not extend all the way to the to the top, but as I poured a glass I was a bit nervous that the wine would be spoiled.

As I soaked in the aroma of the wine, I did not notice anything out of the ordinary. The nose was heavy with black cherry and toasty oak. With a swirl I watched the legs of the wine streak down the side of the glass, just for a moment, indicating a nice medium body. To check the color, I held the glass over my white napkin. With a ruby reddish translucent hue, by the looks of it, the wine was going to pair splendidly.

With a sweet tartness, and a strong acidity, the spaghetti rung in my mouth, before giving way to the flavors of tomatoes and herbs. With little crunchy accents, the celery added a homeyness to the sauce. With two large slices of garlic bread to soak up the sauce my first plate left me wanting more.

Together the wine’s body did not over power the sauce, and was able to subdue some of the acidity, with its low level of tannin. The sweetness of the sauce rounded out the flavor profile of the wine, cutting through some harsher bitterness.

As we plopped on the couch and waited for the New Year, Michael and I were full, healthy, and happy. What better way could there be to bring in a new year, than with a man that is just as much in love with you as you are with him. Yet another perfect pair.

Battle Ham: Part 2

2009-12-29T09:22:00.000-08:00

Family Potluck Christmas with 2008 Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay: 4/5

Sorry about the delay on the conclusion of Battle Ham. Incase you missed the basis of the challenge, I will tell you again. Knowing full well that my mom was going to make a ham on our family Christmas on Sunday, I decided to make a ham on Christmas day, to compare the two in BATTLE HAM!

Although my mom was not as enthused as I was, when I told her, she said, “That’s a good Idea, I don’t really do anything special to my ham, I just pop it in the oven.” With victory on my taste buds, I waited while mom’s basic ham baked in the oven.

For holiday feasts, my family likes the idea of a pot luck. Usually the host will prepare the appropriate protein, and everyone else will bring appetizers, sides, or desserts. With the enormous amount of food, everyone is left to lunch on leftovers for the next week.

This Christmas was no different, although my mom took it upon herself to make scalloped potatoes, corn pudding, and rolls as well. My grandpa’s wife Pat brought green bean casserole, my grandma, coleslaw, my Aunt Molly, fruit and homemade fruit dip, and Michael and I, my Christmas bonus from the Cheesecake factory, a cheesecake. Since my brother Jeff and his wife Michelle had to drive all over god’s wintery earth this Christmas they were excused from cooking.

My mom is more of a beer vs. wine drinker, and when it comes to the extent of her wine knowledge, it goes about as far as the box of red in the refrigerator and a couple bottles around the house. We could of brought a bottle to bring, but by the time I thought of it, we were already in the car and on the way. So I crossed my fingers and hoped for the best.

Consisting of a a couple bottles of Barefoot, Yellow Tail, and a few others, the selection was looking scarce, until I stumbled upon a bottle of Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay. Now I know I said that ham is a red meat and should be paired with red wine, but if there were any white that would to stand up the fat in ham, it would be Chardonnay. With a description of an arrangement of fruit from apples to mangos, and an alcohol content of 13.5% apv, there was a chance that the Chard would fit the bill.

Initially I thought my mom got a spiral ham, but after inspecting it in the oven there was nothing spiral about it. In the past there have been syrupy glazes, and cloves, but this year I guess my mom wanted to keep it simple. So as the plain ham came out of the oven, I began to wonder, did I do to much to my ham?

Surveying the spread, my eyes began to inflate with my stomach. Since my family has never had a giant dinning room, we always do buffet style when it comes to big get together, usually complete with food that wraps around the entire kitchen. I like to stuff as much as I can on my plate, portioning out each item in a pie chart fashion.

As we corked the bottle of wine and everyone made their rounds, my mouth began to salivate, and my nerves raced over which ham would reign supreme.

With traditional flavors—ham, potatoes, and corn, the harmony of the meal just tasted like the holidays. The green bean casserole kept it’s crunch, the scallop potatoes were cooked perfectly, and grandma’s coleslaw added an needed zing to the meal. My mom really does make the best rolls in the world, and this christmas she also made her cardamom rolls.

Cardamom, for those of you who don’t know, is in the same family as ginger, but is used in Swedish cooking. With a spicy flavor, reminiscent of all spice, the flavor resonates in your mouth like cinnamon. I associate it with Christmas since my mom usually make Christmas bread, hot crust buns, and cardamom rolls, all with a fair share of the spice.

Taking a swig of the wine, I was a bit apprehensive. With a nose filled with fruity flavors, and a golden straw hue, the wine’s flavor was light and clean. When combined with the ham, the pairing was pleasant, since there were no glaze on the ham the fruity flavors of the wine brought out the smokiness of the meat. But when matched with the sides, the fattiness of the scalloped potatoes and green bean casserole, over powered the subtly of the vino.

So, now, to break down who’s ham took the cake. Not only because I made it, but because the spices brought out a depth in the wine and the smokiness of the meat, I have to go with my ham. Although, although, although, the side served with mom’s ham, reigned, hands down, over my souffle, veggie medley, and Mike’s sweet potatoes.

After being showered with tons of cooking loot, and goodies to take home, Michael and I packed up the car and headed back to our little apartment over the lake. With a foggy haze hanging over the glowing city, I couldn’t help but think how much I love my family, and Chicago. It was truly a perfect evening, with an almost perfect pair.

Battle Ham: Part 1

2009-12-26T10:02:00.000-08:00

Crock Pot Ham with 2008 Castle Rock Pinot Noir: 5/5

For the holidays my family tends to keep it traditional—turkey for Thanksgiving, ham for Christmas. But since my family resides from mid-Wisconsin, to lower Illinois, the holidays are usually held on a day that is most convenient for everyone. That happens to be tomorrow.

So as I was debating dinner for Michael and I’s Christmas, I was struck with an idea. Since my mom was making ham, why don’t I make a ham as well, and compare the two! Too much ham you say? When it comes to Christmas, you can never have enough ham.

Lo-and-behold, with the few remaining hams in the grocery store on Christmas Eve, I was able to score a $20 ham for $8. With some sides in mind I grabbed a bottle of wine, and headed home to tackle the hunk of meat.

Most likely, my mom will prepare her ham in the oven, or a roaster pan. She’s been known to buy a spiral cut ham, which makes perfect slices, and usually comes with a glaze packet, so I wanted to do the opposite. A ham in the Crock pot is as easy as any other meat in the crock-pot, all you have to do is let it cook for 8 hours.

With the meat simmering away, Michael and I spent the day making doughnuts, candy cane cookies, and a souffle so Rachel, my veggie friend, would have something substantial to eat when it came time for dinner. Following Mark Bittman’s spinach and cheese souffle recipe, my souffle did not fall! Needless to say, for my first souffle, I was very thrilled. (Julia Child’s Recipe is very similar and can be found at, http://www.bigoven.com/160575-Spinach-and-Cheese-Souffle-recipe.html)

About 3 hours into the cooking of the ham, the smell was already unbearably intoxicating. The smell of salty ham and cloves combined with baking cookies, and A Christmas Story on repeat, filled our apartment with yule tide merriment.

When it came time to glaze the turkey, I looked for a recipe a bit out of the ordinary. While most recipes called for corn syrup and brown sugar, I found one that called for coffee and apple cider vinegar http://www.cdkitchen.com/recipes/recs/11/Brown_Sugar_Ham_Glaze1602.shtml. Since the meat was so tender and falling apart, I decided to modify the glaze into more of a jus, so that the meat could soak up the flavor.

Now ham is technically a red meat, which traditionally is paired with red wines. But concerned that a Cabernet would over power the delicate flavors of the souffle and the sweetness of the sweet potatoes, I opted for a lighter red. Rachel is originally from Sanoma County, California, so when I found a bottle of 2008 Castle Rock Pinot Noir, out of Mendocino County, a hop jump and a skip away from Sanoma County, I thought it was fitting.

With an alcohol content of 13.8% the Pinot would have a nice medium body. Described as having notes of raspberry and strawberry, I thought the lighter flavors would pick up on the smokiness of the ham, the savory souflee, and the sweet, sweet potatoes. Although a young red, the wine would have just that bit of tannin to compete with the fat content of the ham.

To keep the integrity of the souffle I decided to serve everything family style. Which was fitting with it being Christmas and all. The three of us sat, new, hungry, friends, and the feast was complete, except for the sweet potatoes, which joined the party after a bit of a marshmallow catastrophe.

Soaking up the smoky flavor of the cloves, and just a hint of bitterness from the coffee, the ham was divine. Of course, since it was not spiral cut, Michael and I ravaged over chunks of meat, but we didn’t mind. The meat was juicy and tender, retaining it’s juices from the crock pot. Mixed with the souffle the effect was almost that of a ham cheese and spinach omelet, a pleasant and unexpected surprise.

The wine had a wonderful medium body, and was a gem to sniff. The rich fruity flavors, contrasted nicely with such a wintery meal. Coating my palate the wine felt like silk, sloshing over my tongue and sliding down my throat. The effect was everything I wanted it to be, the ham did not over power the wine, nor the wine the meat or the souffle.

I don’t know if my mom’s ham will be able to compete with mine, but to her benefit she will have the added effect of family, love, and that magic that comes from mom’s cooking. But for now, I am going to choose my ham and wine as the perfect pair.

Pre-Planned Paradise

2009-12-21T10:05:00.001-08:00

BBQ beef on homemade pretzel rolls with 2006 Phantom Red: 5/5

It’s easy to fall into the routine of eating out when you work over 40 hours a week, but I am telling you, it’s worth it to plan out a couple of meals each week, and EAT LEFTOVERS.

I had to work on Wednesday afternoon, so the monday before I began thinking of what I could make while at work. Clicking through some crock-pot recipes I found a well rated recipe for BBQ pulled pork. http://southernfood.about.com/od/pulledporkrecipes/r/bl103c4.htm. Not finding any pork roasts at the grocery store I settled on beef, which worked just as well.

On Tuesday night I prepared my roast, so all I had to do Wednesday morning was plug it in and turn it on. I also added a some garlic salt and pepper to season the beef a bit more.

Then came the next step of planning. I try to push myself outside my cooking comfort zone every time I step foot in the kitchen, and this time homemade pretzel rolls were up for a duel. http://www.chow.com/recipes/11096

I’ve never made rolls, let alone pretzel rolls. In the future I would like a kitchen thermometer, so I won’t kill the yeast, and a Kitchen Aid mixer, so I don’t have to work my arm into a gelatinous state. Did you know pretzels get their distinct pretzel-ness from a bath of boiling water and baking soda before they are baked? Neither did I.

So with the main part of my meal covered, I was left to tackle the sides. Like a good skirt needs a good top to make a great ensemble, the same applies to a meal. Your side dishes should accompany, not compete or overpower, the star of your main course. Think, meat, potatoes, and corn. The potatoes and corn are perfect compliments to most any American meat dish.

To round out the meal, I decided to prepare a winter salad of mixed greens, oranges, pomegranate, feta, and a citrus balsamic vinaigrette. I never prepared a pomegranate before, so I hit You Tube to find a how-to video. Lo-and-behold from the kitchen of some lady I’ve never seen before, I found “Preparing Pomegranates” http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to/video/how-to-prepare-pomegranates-81307/. Advised to cut over a bowl of water, allowing the arils (seeds) to sink to the bottom, while the pith (the white unedible stuff) floats to the to top, I set off on my own pomegranate adventure. It was a success— stain free, mess free.

Thinking about this meal for a couple of days, it was starting to gain some importance. So I decided to splurge a little on a bottle of wine. Back in my first post, I talked about Un-cork It, a wine and liquor shop not to far from my house, and the rude snobby guy that turned his nose up at me when I asked for a wine to accompany pot roast, well I decided to go back. To my surprise, I was greeted with a friendly smile, and when inquiring about wine, I was taken directly to some California reds, and told not about one wine, but about three.

So I decided on a 2006 bottle of Phantom Red from the Bogle Vineyards, a blend of Petite Sirah, old vine Zinfandel, and old vine Mourvedre. I have never heard of the Mourvedre grape, so when I got home I did a little research.

Apparently Mourvedre is a late ripening grape partial to stony and rocky soil and warmer climates. The wine is used in blends, is medium bodied, and has deep notes of cherry and berries.

The bottle of Phantom had an alcohol content of 14.5%, which must have come from the Zinfandel based on the above description of the Mourvedre, but a strong body would be in order to balance the rich BBQ beef.

Around 8 o’clock, with the apartment coated in a symphony of fresh baked bread, onions, BBQ sauce, and orange, it was time to eat. Pouring a stream of rich ruby liquid into my glass I sat salivating, before the pre-planned feast. Looking back at me, was a meal better than I had pictured, little red pomegranate arils peeked out beneath vibrant green leaves. A buttery brown roll burst forth a bed of BBQ, while the spinach sent tendrils of steam into the air.

Bringing out the smokiness of the beef, the salty pretzel rolls were a perfect compliment. The salad had the warmth of winter, snuggled in a bed of citrus, and sweet pockets of shallots complimented the spinach like a perfect dance partner.

With a bold fruity flavor, the wine coated my palate, leaving a trace of tannin, but kept a smooth finish. With subdued notes of blackberry, black cherry, and vanilla, the flavors echoed the warmth of the BBQ, while playing with the subtly of the pomegranate and citrus. Each sip brought more depth and contrast to the flavors.

With proper preparation, a feast can be made in no time. No matter if it’s for a party of 100 or a just 2, the satisfaction of a kitchen success is well worth the wait. Think, the next time you are about to settle for a quick bite, do I have time to whip up something spectacular? You could reveal a perfect pair.

Out at ENO

2009-12-17T10:58:00.001-08:00

Forlorn Hope Flight and Cheese: 4/5

Price: $$

Address: 505 North Michigan Ave. Chicago, IL 60611

With modern high top wooden tables, a bar of faux marble, and floor to ceiling wine racks, ENO (pronounced EE-noh, as in oenology the art of making wine), in the ground level of the Intercontinental Hotel on Michigan Avenue, attempts to give the feeling of a modern winery, but comes off more as an amusement park recreation.

Started as a refined wine bar in California, specializing in a variety wine, cheese, and chocolate pairings, this now hoity toity chain is strategically located adjacent to high end hotels, leeching off tourist’s and businessmen’s money.

With a variety of options, patrons can choose from wine flights, cheese plates, or the ENO experience, an $85 tour of wine, meat, cheese, and chocolate. Unfortunately for me, the ENO experience was unavailable due to a lack of meat. With one sommelier, one server, and one busser, the operation was run more like circus than a relaxing retreat from the hustle and bustle of city life. Expecting to be educated by the sommelier, I was instead brushed off, as she hurried to her computer to delete emails from her over-full inbox. Later, after understanding the rest of the staff was on vacation leaving these three workers to run the establishment for the entire weekend, I was able to forgive the rude behavior.

Deciding on a flight of Forlorn Hope wines paired with a cheese plate recommended by the sommelier, I watched as a slab of marble was placed on a cutting board and adorned with bread, marcona almonds, a seasonal fruit spread, and the three cheeses. Presented together, the wine and cheese were clearly marked by printed cards, including information of names, flavor profiles, and cases produced (for wines).

First was the 2008 Forlorn Hope La Gitana Torrontes from Alta Mesa, California, a light un-oaked white. With strong lychee notes, and hints of a subtle floralness, the Torrontes was light and refreshing on the palate. Paired with a Ossau-Iraty Sheep Cheese from Basque, France, the hard cheese brought out the light complexity of the wine, while adding a subtle saltiness.

Second was the 2007 Forlorn Hope Que Saudade Verdehlo from Amador County, California. This oaked white was fuller bodied and had immediate walnut notes, with a background of honey. Paired with the Gaperon Cow Cheese from Auvergne, France, this soft garlic and peppercorn cheese, was able to contrast with the nuttiness of the wine, providing a strong depth and concentration of flavors.

For the finale the 2008 Forlorn Hope Suspiro del Moro Alvarelhao from Alta Mesa, California, was truly the creme de la creme of the flight. With only 77 cases produced, the wine had rich notes of tobacco mixed with rhubarb, giving off almost an incencse like flavor. Paired with the Sottocenere cow cheese from Venice, Italy, rich in smoky truffle flavors, the combination was a melt in your heart experience.

Sparking conversation at any chance to cool the frustrated employees I was treated to a shitake truffle and another splash of the Alvarelhao. The Alvarelhao brought out the earthiness of the mushrooms, while the smooth chocolate complimented the tobacco flavors of the wine. Truly exceptional.

ENO, while providing over 200 wines, is still a tourist trap, and with places like Wine Styles located a mile south, offering a variety of great cheap wines by the bottle, it will be hard to come back again. But if you don’t mind spending $50 dollar on three 3oz pours and some cheese to impress your date, then ENO is a pretty perfect pair.

Meaty, Meaty Meatloaf

2009-12-14T11:49:00.000-08:00

Meatloaf and 2006 Oxford Landing Cabernet and Shriaz Blend: 4/5

American classics—grilled cheese, green bean casserole, pot roast, apple pie. Recipes that came from cupboards and freezers, combinations of miscellaneous odds and ends in a post depression America. In my mind, one recipe screams classic more than any other, a simple combination of ground meat, bread crumbs, some seasoning, and usually ketchup—meatloaf.

Meatloaf, as with many classic american comfort food recipes, is a product of the middle class. Nothing in the dish is rare, exotic, or hard to find. No ingredients are too expensive, and it is able to feed a family of four with some left over. But, classic recipes, usually are lacking in flavor.

Growing up we only had meatloaf a hand full of times. I don’t know if it was my mom’s recipe, or my dad’s distaste for ketchup, but no one really cared for the gelatinous brown mass, blood red, from its tomatoey bath.

But after receiving a call from Michael telling me he got an invitation to go see the Flaming Lips, I wasn’t feeling very motivated to go to the grocery store to make something for myself. So I opened the fridge, the pantry, then the freezer, and then Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything, which is now on my christmas list. With a pound of ground beef in the fridge, along with some veggies, ground venison in the freezer, and panko in the pantry, it was looking like meatloaf was for dinner. http://springpadit.com/ketherian/recipe/bittmansmeatloaf

Of all the meatloafs I’ve had in my life, none have included fresh herbs or minced carrot, and they all were basted in ketchup, so I was a little anxious to taste the final product of this recipe. Would it be better than mom’s? To spice mine up a bit, I added some Worcestershire sauce, some various spices from my cupboard, and what they hey, I had it my fridge, so I minced a rib of celery as well.

For you vegetarians out there, meatloaf is not the prettiest thing to watch while it is cooking. As the outside browns, fat is cooked out of the loaf, seeping onto the baking dish, some coagulating around the meat. Maybe that’s why my mom didn’t like to cook meat loaf. While you can cook meat loaf in a loaf pan, it retains it shape, so you can also make a loaf shape on a baking dish, which is what I did.

Since there was no shopping involved in this recipe, I was left pairing with a wine from my collection. I knew I wanted a red wine. Although the ground beef and venison I used were lean, they were still red meat, and were going to need some tannin to cut through all that meatiness. Now a heavier bodied merlot or a cabernet, would probably outweigh the herbs and spices in the meatloaf, and unfortunately most of my red collection is just that. But, continuing my search, I found something promising.

A blend of Cabernet and Shiraz, the 2006 Oxford Landing blend from south Australia, could fit the bill, not the most expensive wine, but I wasn’t making the most expensive meal, so it seemed perfect. With a description of blackberry and plum, and an alcohol content of 13.5%, the blend would have the perfect body to pair with the lean red meat.

To accompany the meatloaf, I decided on a baked sweet potato and some veggies. For those of you who have not had a baked sweet potato, I strongly suggest giving it a shot. In my opinion, sweet potatoes just have more flavor than traditional russets, while still lending themselves to a variety of toppings. While I like mine with sour cream or butter, you can also top them with brown sugar, cinnamon, candied walnuts, or even maple syrup, perfect to warm you up in the winter. Sweet potatoes are also healthier for you. Lower in empty starches, high in beta carotene, vitamin A, C, and B6, its something you can feel good about eating.

As the loaf made its way out of the oven, sweet smells of parsley, onion, and celery swept the space around me. On multiple occasions now, Michael and I’s neighbors have stopped us on the way to the elevator, and asked if we were the ones doing all of the good smelling cooking. What can I say? I am thinking of buying a dry erase board for our door and post the evening’s pairing.

Staring at the mass of meat, I studied the specks of green and orange. It just looked better than my mom’s. Worried that the loaf would crumble under the weight of my knife I started my first slice. To my surprise everything held together, and was cooked completely through. Examining the cross section, the various specks of other ingredients were perfectly suspended throughout the loaf like little flavor pockets waiting to be popped.

Swirling and sniffing, the wine smelled very oaky and acidic, but after a second swirl I could pick out some blackberry notes. Having aged a couple of years, the wine was darker in color, and had noticeable legs, but did not coat the glass like syrup. Upon first taste, I was over powered by the strong acidity, burning my throat on the way down. I began to worry that the meatloaf didn’t stand a chance.

Segmenting a small bite, I brought the meatloaf to my mouth. I was overpowered by the rich herby flavor of the parsley, with fresh compliments of carrot and celery. Even with wine on my palate the bold zest of the meatloaf was able to withstand the acidity of the wine. With the sweet flavor of the sweet potato, and the cruchiness of steamed veggies, I was in a 1950s dining room, complete with mom in pearls.

As I sat alone at my dining room table, I made the realization that food is best when shared. Not only is it the wine and food being paired, it’s also the company. But solitude aside, it was a perfect pair.

Three's Company

2009-12-10T09:07:00.000-08:00

Baked Macaroni and Cheese with 2007 Ménage à trois Chardonnay: 4/5

When looking for a quick dinner, I strongly urge you not to grab a box, or a package, or something you will have regretted ingesting the moment you have finished. When looking for a quick dinner, a delicious meal can be whipped up in a few short minutes.

Since I had gone to see Up in the Air, with Rachel, by the time we were finished hanging out it was dinner time. Conveniently, directly across the street from the movie theater was a Dominick’s. So, without looking for a recipe, I decided to enter the store and see what spoke to me.

With quarter sized snow flakes falling from the sky like marshmallows, I was reminded of childhood. The days where mom would not have time to prepare an extravagant meal, yet despite raising two boys, going to school, and working, she was able to whip up something that we could share for dinner.

Many of you, when thinking of mac and cheese, would automatically picture the blue box. And while I am not saying that there was never a blue box meal in our house growing up, there was also something more.

I’m talking about homemade macaroni and cheese, simple, yet some much better than than powdered cheese and orange food coloring found in the tinfoil paper package. There would be the nights where my mom would pull that giant casserole dish out of the oven, seeing the tension in her face from the weight, and I would know that what was in that dish was made with a million times more love than what could come out of any box.

So when walking through the grocery store, with the marshmallow snow flakes falling outside, I was craving my mom’s mac and cheese. But, as any good cook will attest, no matter how hard you try, yours is never going to be as good as mom’s. So with that in mind, I wanted to put my own spin on the dish.

When I got home I thumbed through Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything and found his Baked Macaroni and Cheese recipe, http://www.howtocookeverything.tv/recipe.php%3Fnid=27.html, and compared my ingredients. While Bittman described his rendition as macaroni and cheese for “grown-ups”, because of using Emmenthal and parmesan cheeses, I wanted more traditional flavors, with a twist, so I chose cheddar, jack, and ricotta.

Now the thing about ricotta, some people love it, some people hate it. It’s a texture thing. And texture, in my mind, is just as important as smell. Me, personally, I love the texture of ricotta. Michael, on the other hand, does not, but luckily he had not waited for me to make dinner, and wasn’t hungry for my mac and cheese anyways.

For those of you who are unfamiliar with ricotta, it’s the cheese most commonly used in lasagna. It has an almost gritty texture to it, and is used more for the body of a dish rather than the flavor.

While Bittman uses bread crumbs for his recipe, I took the opportunity to again try Panko (japanese bread crumbs), which tend to crisp up a bit more than the traditional crumbs. With the smooth creamy texture of the cheddar and noodles, the slight grittiness of the ricotta, and the crunchiness of the Panko, the textures in the dish were sure to shock my palate.

I have been waiting for an excuse to try the Ménage à trois Chardonnay. The Ménage à trois California Red was one of the first red wines that I was really impressed with. With its upfront fruitiness, medium body, and slight tannin, it was a party for my palate, and since then I have been waiting to try their white, and what better excuse, with three cheeses in my mac and cheese.

The Ménage à trois Chardonnay is described as having citrus aromas from Monterey, tropical flavors from Santa Barbara, and fine structure from Mendocino, a “true ménage à trois”. With an alcohol content of 13.5% the wine’s body would be able to handle the heavy, creamy, textures of the mac and cheese, while the fruitiness and oak would be able to enhance each bite.

After a quick bake, the mac and cheese came out of the oven nice and bubbly, sending the warm smell of cheese and pasta through our apartment. As I corked the bottle and poured a glass, I was immediately over taken with the strong citrus aroma of the wine. After a minute to settle, a fresh swirl led to some more tropical scents of papaya and mango.

The crispy Panko topping of the mac and cheese, as with my mother’s crouton topping, was my favorite part of the dish. In one bite, I was immediately transported to my child hood home, taking a break from homework to sit down with my family and enjoy this heart warming dish. Although I would have liked it more if I had picked up some ham or bacon to include, the simplicity did not become monotonous thanks to the panko and ricotta.

Together the wine and the mac and cheese were made for each other. The body of the Chardonnay was able to stand together with the weight of the dish, without over powering it. The fruitiness and stronger acidity was able to break through the fat from the cheese, while cleansing the palate for a fresh bite.

The thing about it, and this is why I am beginning to despise boxed and prepackaged food, is the whole recipe only took about a half an hour to make. I mean it’s basically boiling some water, melting some cheese, and baking for 15 minutes. So the next time you don’t think you have time to make a meal, just think about it for a moment, there may just be a perfect pair a half an hour away.

Warming Up During Winter

2009-12-07T19:21:00.000-08:00

White Bean Soup and 2007 Gnarly Head Pinot Grigio: 5/5

With sub zero temperatures right around the corner I thought it was time for some savory soup. Now I didn’t want to spend all day slaving over a pot, doctoring, and seasoning, and stirring. I just wanted to sauté, simmer, and serve. And If there is anything that follows those guide lines it would be a crock pot recipe.

When Brian and Lucy came over to dinner the other night, they decided to let me borrow their little pot of gold, Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything. From how to chop an onion, to how to prepare an artichoke, this book has it all: an overwhelming amount of recipes, great side notes, picture instructions on preparation, and a section dedicated to knife handling.

So as I was thumbing through the book, I found the soup section, narrowed my search to something main-course worthy, and settled on white bean and ham hock soup. But wait, white beans, don’t beans usually have to be soaked over night? According to Mark Bittman’s experiments, the only difference that occurred from soaking the beans over night was a reduced cooking time of a half an hour. Although he recommends buying beans that have not started to shrivel, and that are uniform in color, he does not say its necessary to soak. So I was willing to give it a shot.

While Bittman’s book does have a side note in the soup section about vegetables that can be added to soups that won’t effect the flavor, I wanted to make sure that the vegetables I chose were good ones. So I did some research online and found a recipe from the latest winner of The Next Iron Chef, Jose Garces, http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/white-bean-soup-with-bacon-and-herbs, which included celery, garlic, carrot, and for a little extra pork flavor, bacon.

Both Bittman and Garce’s recipes also said to prepare the soup on the stove, and seeing as I had to get to a magazine release party, I wanted to make the soup in the crock pot. So I decided to do a little modifying. 3 hours before I wanted the soup to be ready, I started preparing the ingredients. After sauteing the bacon and cooking the veggies in the bacon grease, I brought the beans, chicken stock, ham hock, and veggies, to a boil. Once to a boil I transfered everything to the crock pot and cooked on high until the ready to serve 3 hours later.

Based on the consistency of the soup, the lighter flavors of the chicken stock, and vegetables, I thought that a white wine would be the appropriate accompaniment. While a Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc, might have held up to the earthiness of the soup, I think the floral and melon like qualities would have been to light to really awaken the flavors in the dish. Now a Chardonnay or Pinot Grigio, with their heavier bodies, oaky undertones, and rich fruit flavors, would definitely prove an equal match for the soup. But what to choose.

Now when at a liquor or wine store that offers a large selection of wines to choose from, I try not to let the marketing of the wine get in the way, but I have to tell you, I am a sucker for a funny, evocative, or shiny label. So my rule is, when at the grocery store, letting my inner child choose a wine is just fine, as long it is going to pair well with the food.

So as I was meandering by the Pinot Grigio, an interesting graphic caught my eye. A semi impressionistic illustration of a grape vine with a vibrant background of oranges and reds called to me. Stopping to look at the bottle, a 2007 Gnarly Head Pinot Grigio from California, I was amused by the description, soaked in surfing simile. The wine offered flavors of ginger, pineapple, pears, and apples with a finish that “kicked out” with style and grace.

I was sold.

When it came time to eat, Michael was entrenched in the television, watching his beloved show, soon to be off the air, Dollhouse. And while I usually detest the television blaring during dinner, I decided to show a little compassion.

I ladled two servings from the pot, topped each with crispy bacon and a sprinkling of freshly chopped parsley. To soak up the left over soupy goodness, I had popped some garlic bread into the oven, which was now ready, sending tendrils of garlic butter through the kitchen.

As we sat, I corked the bottle and poured two healthy glasses of wine, admiring the symmetry of the table. Immediately my nose was blasted with the strong aromas of pear and ginger, with the subtly apple in the background. The wine’s body was a nice medium, with a presence that could be felt, but did not leave your throat burning without something to pair it with.

Although Mark Bittman’s recipe suggested blending our pureeing the soup, I decided to go with Garces recipe and leave everything whole. I like the flavors in my soup to be distinct and recognizable, instead of overly melded together.

With the freshness of the parsley, the earthiness of the beans, and the smoky flavors of the bacon and ham hock, the soup washed over my palate like a fleece glove on a sub zero day. The contrasting flavors were able to provide amazing depth to the soup, while maintaining the cohesive feeling that the ingredients just took a bath together for the last three hours. The beans were cooked beautifully, melting like butter in my mouth. I don’t know if I will ever soak a bean again.

Together, the wine was able to cleanse the palate, while adding a fruity note to the over all effect of the dish. The smooth finish was able to cool my throat allowing for a fresh warm swallow of soup every time, something we wouldn’t have gotten with red wine.

Jumbo Gumbalaya?

2009-12-03T13:26:00.000-08:00

Gumbalaya and 2008 Banrock Station Shriaz: 5/5

I’ve never been to New Orleans. One time I debated Tulane as a possibility for college, but that was 2005, and my life would have been very different had I left the nest only to battle Hurricane Katrina.

The only time I have eaten semi-authentic cajun cuisine was at Heaven on Seven, a Louisiana “style” restaurant owned by two Chicagoans. With live “cajun” music, a variety of hot sauces overtaking the table, and gaudy mardi gras decorations, the restaurant felt more like Disney World than authentic New Orleans. And while I understand what cajun cooking consists of, I can honestly say I have never tasted an authentic creole dish.

So I don’t really know what got into me when I thought of making jambalaya, but I decided it was worth a shot.

Now, although the recipe that I followed http://www.gumbocity.com/chicken_sausage_shrimp.html was for gumbo, I did some research and could only find a couple of differences between gumbo and jambalaya. Most traditional gumbos include okra, tend to be more of a soup or stew consistency, and are served over rice. Jambalayas are usually less stew like and are incorporated with rice. But my recipe did not include okra, and was served over rice. So I think I am calling it—gumbalaya.

With my guests Brian, Lucy, Rocio, and Zack coming over between 6:00 and 7:00, I started cooking around 5:00, expecting to get done around 6:30. Unfortunately I am still not the fastest vegetable chopper so prepping the meal took longer than expected, and Zack, having a soccer game to get to, had to take a cup to go, woops.

Now in addition to the actual recipe, I wanted to spice things up a bit by adding some extra flavors. Instead of using 1 can of beef stock, I decided to take the recipe up a notch by adding 30oz of Goose Island Christmas Ale. The effect just added more depth to the dish. Since the recipe included chorizo, I thought some other great additions would be Ro-Tel, some Andouille sausage, cumin, chili powder, paprika, a dash of cayenne pepper, and a can of Ranch Style beans.

Ranch Style Beans? I had never heard of them either until Mike came around. Ranch style beans, http://www.conagrafoods.com/consumer/brands/brand_info.jsp?cookietest=true&page=ranch_style, are basically chili beans with an attitude. Hailing from texas the beans are canned with Tex-Mex spices, and come in a variety of flavors. They are delicious by themselves or in chili, stews, or gumbalaya.

Luckily Lucy and Brian had a hard time navigating to our apartment so that gave me a little extra time to finish up the recipe. When they arrived it was time to eat. After doing some research I decided an Australian Shiraz would be a great wine to pair with our cajun dish. Something with earthy undertones a medium body, and flavors that would accompany the variety of spices. Asking Rocio to pick up a shiraz, I crossed my fingers for a good pair. She arrived with two bottles of 2008 Banrock Station Shiraz.

With a description of cherry, raspberry, black currant, dark chocolate and spicy oak flavors, I was concerned that the wine would be too fruity to be able to stand against the bold flavors of the gumbalaya. With a whiff I was over taken by the aromatic nose. The description held true as I was immersed in a field of cherries wrapped in warm toasty oak. With an alcohol content of 13% the wine’s body was on the lighter side of medium. Holding on my tongue, the presence was felt, but did not coat each crevasse like that of a heavy bodied merlot. The finish was smooth and clean, with very little tannin to experience.

Catching a whiff of the chorizo in the gumbalaya my mouth began to water again. The first bite was a ethnic jamboree in my mouth. A slow growing heat from the cayenne and chorizo sizzled on my tongue, as perfectly cooked shrimp added texture and sustenance to the over all body of the dish. The cooked peppers, onions, and celery, seemed to coat each bite adding sweetness and earthiness. Each new bite made music in my mouth.

Together the pair did not fail. The lighter body of the shiraz allowed the flavors of the gumbalaya to shine through, while the wines aromatic fruitiness remained recognizable. Together the two did not over power each other, but rather massaged over every zone of my tongue.

Five servings out of the pot, and we hadn’t even made a dent in the gumbalaya. Although I wanted seconds, Brian and Lucy brought a cherry pie, from a bakery by their house, and I did not want to over stuff myself, seeing as thanksgiving was just last week.

With white christmas lights twinkling on Michael and I’s tree and windows, the warmth in the apartment finally felt like Christmas. I whipped out Cranium and we played as we made room for pie. The night was filled with laughter, competition, and good company. Another perfect pair.

Copious Culinary Carnival—Thanksgiving

2009-11-29T17:21:00.001-08:00

Thanksgiving feast + 2006 Davis Family Vineyards Pinot Noir: 4/5

My friend Lisa’s roommates Therese and Agnus are known for there Thanksgiving spread, cooking a turkey, ham and rolls. Each guest attending is asked to bring an appetizer or a side dish to accompany the meal, and this year, as Michael and I were invited, we were were given the task of green bean casserole.

Now I had never made green bean casserole before, but I knew the basic recipe—green beans, cream of mushroom soup, and french fried onion strings. Jumping online, I found some recipes that were simply those ingredients, but that wasn’t anything special. Then, like a stick of butter on a piece of bread, I found it.

Paula Deen’s Green Bean Casserole. With five stars and over 200 reviews, I knew it was going to be a hit. I scrolled down, only to see the first ingredient, butter. Even though the butter was only used to cook the onions in, which isn’t all that bad, it wouldn’t be a Paula Deen recipe without some butter.

What I liked about this recipe, as in some others, is Paula called for fresh green beans, sliced by hand. Although it took a while to slice all of those green beans, the added freshness trumped recipes that use frozen, ten fold.

Since the oven was most likely going to be in use at Lisa’s house, I ingeniously modified the recipe so it would be transportable and stay warm. When it came time to mix the beans with the mushrooms, onion, and cream of mushroom soup, I just popped it in my crock pot’s removable porcelain basin, and put that in the oven, instead of a casserole dish. After the 20 minutes in the oven at 350, I just put the basin in the heating element and topped it with cheese. When we got to Lisa’s all I had to do was put the casserole on warm, and it would be ready whenever dinner was.

The spread at Lisa’s was breathtaking. For appetizers, a cheese and bacon ball, flat bread onion pizza, bacon covered water chestnuts, stuffed mini sweet peppers, fried rice balls, stuffed mushrooms, and artichoke dip, lined the wooden buffet flanking the beautiful white linen covered table, set for 20. Through the living room, adjacent to the dining area, a wooden bar held over 20 bottles of just red wine, while a basket on the floor filled with ice held 10 more white. And let me just tell you, when Michael and I were leaving, the collection had been reduced to a number that could be counted on both hands.

When dinner was getting ready to be served I perused the bottles to see what varietals were in the collection. For white there was a bottle of Proscecco and Sauvignon Blanc already open, and I thought both would have accompanied the appetizers better than the main feast. For reds, there was a bottle of Zinfandel and two bottles of Pinot Noir.

Now for poultry, I would usually think white, but with a meal like Thanksgiving, there are obviously going to be some heavier flavors—stuffing, green bean casserole, sweet potatoes, gravy. All of which call for something with a bit more body than your usual chardonnay. But for reds, you have to be careful as well, a Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot might over power the delicate flavors of the turkey, leaving you only tasting wine. But a Pinot Noir, usually with a younger fruitier flavor, would be an excellent pair.

Or so I thought.

One of the two Pinot Noirs available was a 2006 Davis Family Vineyards Pinot Noir, which upon researching, I found was a $40 bottle of wine. I would never buy a $40 bottle of wine to pair with Thanksgiving. For me, a $40 bottle of wine should be drank with a meal made specifically for the wine, but that is just me. Anyways, recently on www.winesoaked.com, Sara Kay tasted a range of Malbecs from $8-$24 and explained the differences between the price points. She pointed out that a $24 dollar red might be older, aged in actual oak barrels instead of with oak chips, might contain sediment, and would have stronger flavors.

Bringing the Davis Family Pinot to my nose I was over taken with the strong smell of dill. I’m talking, might as well have plucked a fresh sprig and ground it between my fingers in front of my nose, scent of dill. Never have I smelled such a strong, distinct, flavor from a wine. While most Pinot Noirs have an alcohol content of 13%-13.5%, this was very full bodied at 14.1% alcohol per volume. Tasting, there was a strong earthiness, but a clean finish. I was surprised that the tannins weren’t over powering, and the body, while feeling heavier on the palate than other Pinots I have tried, was still lighter than most merlots or cabernets. At the end of my first glass there were remnants of oak barrel, just as Sara had described.

The main spread, followed by 3 different types of pies, included peas, Puerto Rican rice, rolls, a tofurkey, brussels sprouts, ham, corn bread pudding, candied yams, stuffing, my green bean casserole, and of course and entire 20 pound turkey. While the wine was a bit too upfront to pair with the turkey, the earthy flavors were so interesting I didn’t really mind.

Michael’s favorite dish of the evening was the Puerto Rican rice, with bits of olive and mushroom, in a spicy tomato sauce, flavorful enough to stand up to the Pinot. My favorite had to have been the corn bread pudding. With a consistency of super moist corn bread with whole kernels of corn baked in, the flavor was rich and buttery. After a mouth full of the pudding a good swing of wine would cut through the butter left on my palate, leaving me ready for more.

As 9:00 rolled around, Michael and I decided to head out, leaving a warm fire place crackling behind us and laughter rolling up the stairs. I can honestly say I have never tried so many Thanksgiving dishes at one time. With good friends, family, and great food, I am thankful for another perfect pair. Happy Thanksgiving.

Going Greek

2009-11-23T09:48:00.001-08:00

A Greek Feast with 2006 Raven’s Wood Cabernet Sauvignon: 5/5

With The Cheesecake Factory final exam coming up at the end of this week, I thought it wise of me to try and get together with one of my training buddies to do some studying. So, as last week came to a close, I asked Rachel, a transplant from northern California, if she would be interested in coming over for dinner and study time. With out hesitation she agreed, and the date was set for Sunday night.

With some opened ended questioning I found out that Rachel’s favorite food was Spanakopita, a Greek pastry stuffed with spinach and feta cheese. So as the hours passed yesterday morning, I began to think of a Greek inspired menu that would include these spinach puffs.

I don’t know what happened, one dish snowballed into another, and another, until I had dreamt up quite an elaborate feast. Since Rachel is also a vegetarian, I wanted to make sure that I included enough sustenance so that the meal did not turn out to be a collection of sides. But after the last vegetarian meal (see Top Chef of Tomorrow), Michael mentioned that, although delicious, veggie meals did not fill the meat void. So, of course, I wanted to include some meat as well.

I started with the Spanakopita, jumped on the computer and found a Rachel Ray recipe, http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/rachael-ray/spanikopita-recipe/index.html Although the filling sounded delicious, the way she described folding each puff was not traditional. So I found another recipe that included the traditional triangular fold, http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Spanakopita-107344, completing the recipe.

For Rachel, I thought that pan fried eggplant sounded Mediterranean, and recently while watching The Food Network, I have been seeing tons of Panko (Japanese bread crumbs). So I thought this would be an excellent excuse to combine the two.

Unable to find a recipe, I made my own. I started by slicing the eggplant into 1/4’’ - 1/2’’ thick slices. Then I placed the sliced eggplant on a cookie sheet, sprinkled with coarse ground salt and left to rest for a 1/2 hour. While the slices were resting, I prepared three bowls, one with 1/4 cup of flour, the second with 2 whisked eggs, and a third with 1/2 cup of Panko. After the eggplant had finished resting, I removed the excess salt and water and dipped the slices once into each bowl, coating both sides. When all of the pieces were coated I prepared a large skillet with 1/4 cup of oil over medium heat. After oil was hot, I placed the eggplant into skillet and browned both sides, until crispy.

To top the eggplant I wanted a greek inspired sauce, and what is more greek than Tzatziki. With 4 stars and 30 reviews, I turned to Ina Garten’s recipe, http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/ina-garten/tzatziki-recipe/index.html. The most common criticism in the reviews pertained to the sauce being to salty. I also didn’t think I would need 2 1/2 cups of Tzatziki, so I halved the recipe, and salt and peppered to taste.

For meat, I wanted something simple, but Greek inspired, so I thought of kabobs. To be adventurous, I just winged a recipe. I started by soaking 7 skewers in water for about 30 minutes. While the skewers were soaking I defrosted 2 chicken breasts just long enough to become pliable, but not completely thawed. I recommend doing this because semi-frozen chicken is easier to chop. I then sliced the chicken breast into 28 equal pieces and put 4 slices on a skewer. After arranging the skewers on a cookie sheet, I drizzled with olive oil, salt, pepper, 2 teaspoons of fresh chopped dill, and popped them into a 350 degree oven for 30-40 minutes or until cooked through.

To finish I wanted to make a pasta side, with some Mediterranean vegetables. So I started by roasting some tomatoes. Michael Chiarello, another Food Network Chef, has a great recipe for roasted tomatoes, http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/michael-chiarello/roasted-tomatoes-recipe/index.html, but I only used 4 roma tomatoes, and quartered each, instead of halved, and added some balsamic vinegar and herbs in addition to the other ingredients.

After the tomatoes I sauteed some chopped baby portabella mushrooms, with the leftover Spanakopita filling, and then added some jarred artichoke hearts, with a splash of olive oil. After boiling a full package of spaghetti I tossed in the tomatoes, mushrooms, and artichoke hearts, and sprinkled about 3oz of feta cheese on top. Finally the Greek feast was complete.

Not specifying a varitel, I asked Rachel to bring a bottle of wine. She brought over a 2006 Raven’s Wood Cabernet Sauvignon. While I was a little apprehensive that a Cabernet might over power the lighter flavors of the dish, I was pleasantly surprised to see an alcohol content of 13.5%, giving this wine a lighter body compared to other Cabernets. With a description of earthy, rich, and dark, the flavors would be left to the drinker. My nose detected notes of plum and black cherry, with a warming toasted oak.

Finally, as we all sat to enjoy our meal, I ranged over the feast that was just a dream hours ago. The creamy cucumber flavor from the Tzatziki cooled the palate as the eggplant provided added flavor and a rough, cruchy texture. The Spanikopita turned out delicate, rich and smooth with little pops of feta and dill. The chicken kabobs, herby and a bit tough, rounded out the meal with a backbone of protein, while the pasta provided pockets of intense roasted tomato, earthy portabella, and rich artichoke flavors.

While part of me thinks a bright white wine, like a Sauvignon Blanc or Gewürztraminer, would have enhanced the meal by cleansing the palate, another part of me thinks that red was the right choice. With rich flavors the Cabernet provided a cohesiveness of the meal, enhancing the herbyness of the chicken, and taming the garlic in the Tzatziki. In another way the wine was able to provide a heaviness that gave a feeling of a complete meal, instead of just a collection of dishes. One could argue either way.

As we digested and talked of television and past restaurant experiences, the ominous cloud of studying moved over the table. Michael excused himself to the bedroom, so he wouldn’t bother us, and Rachel and I, ranged over table numbers, full menu names, and server time charts. When the evening came to a close the verdict was clear, this was another perfect pair.

Pear and Pinot (Grigio That Is)

2009-11-22T09:16:00.000-08:00

Ginger Pear Chicken and 2008 3 Blind Moose Pinot Grigio: 5/5

Last night, overlooking a relaxed lake Michigan bathed in burnt yellows and oranges of the setting sun, I got a craving for something seasonal. So, perched on my orange couch, I thought of the flavors of the season I hadn’t had this year. I’ve tasted the crisp crunch of a fresh picked apple, the smooth creaminess of pumpkin soup, and turkey, stuffing, and cranberries are all just around the corner, what else was there?

Pears, juicy and ripe with pulp that seems to melt like butter in your mouth. So since I gorged myself trying nearly half of The Cheesecake Factory menu this past week, I wanted to make something that was lighter, yet seasonal. So I found this recipe for ginger pear chicken. http://busycooks.about.com/od/chickenbreastrecipes/r/gingerpearchick.htm

Although there were 4 1/2 stars, this recipe was only reviewed by two people, but I was willing to take a chance and doctor things accordingly. As I pondered over the recipe in my head, I decided fennel, with its slight anise flavor, and dried cranberries, with tartness and sweetness, would provide more complexity to the dish. A prior reviewer recommended topping the dish with a drizzling of balsamic vinegar, which I would suggest as well. The additional acidity, adds a mouth watering effect, and plays well with the the tart and sweet flavors already in the dish.

I’d like to take a minute and talk about ginger. Ginger, like potatoes, carrots, beets, and parsnips, is a root, and an ugly one at that. Where as carrots and potatoes tend to be cone shaped and oblong ovals, ginger is tuber, which basically means there is no rhyme or reason for the shape of this veggie. The first time I used ginger, I was intimidated to say the least. Here I am, holding this amorphous beige mass, that I have only ever seen picked and served with wasabi, and I am supposed to do what with it? Really the process is quite simple and just takes a peel and a chop, but for those less adventurous, it’s understandable that trying new things, especially food, is nerve racking. So my advice with any new food is to slice a little bit, smell it, taste it, and then cook it. Be careful, as some thing, like ginger, are very potent.

Since this meal was going to be lighter in nature I decided that a Pinot Grigio would be a great candidate to pair with the meal. Where Chardonnay tends to have a heavier body and a rich buttery flavor that pairs well with alfredo and light pastas, Pinot Grigio is silkier and a bit more delicate, lending itself nicely to the range of flavors in the dish at hand. As I scouted about the store, I wanted to find a bottle with notes of pear and citrus. Lo-and-behold, a bottle of 2008 3 Blind Moose had just that, and it was only $9.

To accompany the Chicken I prepared some rice with chopped green onion and seasoning. When everything hit the plate, the contrasting burgundy cranberries popped against the slivers of green onion. Without the two, the dish would have been beige and boring.

Moist and flavorful, the chicken breast, dredged in flour and browned before cooked throughout, had no thought of being dry, while the balsamic vinegar resonated on the palate giving off that mouth watering effect I was hoping for. Moist bits of onion and fennel provided a base for the sweet pears and cranberries, while the rice soaked in the excess juice from the chicken and pears.

With aromatics of sun ripened citrus, pear, and a hint of melon, the wine filled my nostrils with a scene of a perfect fall day, brisk enough for a coat, but just right with a cup of warm apple cider, or hot chocolate. Resting on my tongue, the wine’s light weight gave way to a stronger acidity and a lingering finish.

Together the meal was a perfect example of the power of pairing. Alone the Pinot Grigio was to acidic, making my lips pucker, and palate tense as it moved down my throat, but together, the wine’s acidity was cut down by the sweetness of pear and cranberry, only leaving the added flavors of the wine, which accompanied the dish perfectly. Alone the herby chicken and rice would have gotten monotonous by the end of the meal, but together the wine was able to bring out the subtleties of the dishe’s fennel, onion, and ginger flavors.

Usually it is the food that induces a coma after the meal, but this time it was the wine. Stimulated by good conversation, Michael and I had no problem finishing the bottle with the meal. With the boom of fireworks outside, as the lighting parade on Michigan Avenue came to a close, the only fireworks we were paying attention to were the ones inside our mouths from another perfect pair.

Simply Stupendous Spud Soup

2009-11-19T15:12:00.000-08:00

Creamy Potato Soup with 2008 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc - Viognier Blend: 5/5

Certain weather calls for certain food. A brisk morning, with the sun just high enough to send slivers of light dancing about your bedroom, freshly fried bacon with a bright aromatic bubbly. A scorching hot July day, watermelon. A rainy late fall afternoon where the sun sets before five, potato soup.

With rain in the forecast and a few leaves left grasping their branches, Michael and I thought potato soup would be an excellent recipe to delve into. Now that I have started working, Michael mentioned to me that he had no problem helping out with dinners. So I left him to make this slow cooker potato soup. http://allrecipes.com/Recipe/Slow-Cooker-Creamy-Potato-Soup/Detail.aspx With 4.5 stars,167 reviews, and close to 9,000 ratings, this recipe was bound to be delicious.

My mom has a potato soup, that she makes either over the stove or in the crock pot, and it is good. Not great, just good. Now I have never made potato soup from scratch, but for some reason my mother’s gets a grainy consistency. Michael said that it was either because she used the wrong potatoes, or cooked the potatoes to long, but I was thinking that it might also be because she doesn’t use heavy cream or half and half. Although the soup does turn out thick, it’s not creamy, so I was hoping this soup was going to turn out smooth, rich, and delicious.

When the elevator doors opened yesterday at around 2:00, I was greeted with a flavor crescendo of onion, potatoes, and bacon, which only got stronger the closer I got to our apartment. Turning the handle and swinging the door open, I closed my eyes and took a long sniff. The rain outside, my tired body, and the day’s events seemed to leak out of me, only leaving the sweet smell of soup. The Crock Pot lid drummed lightly on the porcelain basin, each movement leaking more aroma into the room.

Placing the groceries on the table, I unwrapped the bottle of 2008 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc - Viognier blend I had purchased for 11 dollars at Dominick’s. With a description of bright pear, grapefruit, and tropical flavors, I thought the profile would match the light creaminess of the soup.

Michael decided to use cornstarch instead of flour for a thickening agent, when it came time to finish prepping the soup. This, he claimed, would help for the digestion of the soup, although I think when you have that much starch, a little flour is not going to have that much of an effect.

Finally after waiting until 6:00, it was time to eat. Michael sliced the green onion, and I took out the cheddar jalapeno bread I had picked up from the store. I could feel my the drips of saliva beginning to form in my mouth. I opened the bottle of wine as Michael topped the bowls with bacon, green onions, and sharp cheddar cheese. The bright colors against the creamy pale white soup reminded me of why fall isn’t that bad of a season after all.

The aromatics of the wine were loud and upfront. While Michael claimed to smell apricot, I was overtaken by grapefruit, with a lingering pear post aroma. I gave the wine a swirl noticing it’s light color, slight oakiness, and a light body. As the wine made contact with my tongue, I was over taken with a puckering sensation, that gave way to a medium sweetness. The finish was clean and smooth.

The soup sent tendrils of steam into the air, and with each glance, I noticed the shredded cheese start to take on an oozy consistency, just begging to be spooned into my mouth. I tried to get a perfect bite, a bit of bacon, a crisp green onion, a chunk of potato, and a shred of cheese. After blowing a bit, the soup was ready for take off. I closed my eyes and tried not to anticipate the flavors, instead just let them happen. Sending me to cloud nine, my body tensed, the smooth rich texture blanketed my palate, as the texture dissipated, bits of bacon seemed to rise, giving way to green onion, and a intense cheddar flavor all wrapped in a potato package.

Just when I thought it could not get any better, I took another sip of wine. Crisp fruity flavors seemed to bring out the brightness of the green onion, tamed the sharpness of the cheddar, and ran off with the potatoes to Vegas for a quick marriage before realizing that they were actually in love and made for each other. Each new bite layered upon the last, making for an intensifying dining experience that was only ended when I couldn’t take another bite.

Michael, usually a humble cook, was raving like he had just sculpted the next David. As well he should have. Defeated like the Nazis after WWII, we both collapsed onto the couch, struggling to stay awake for the latest episode of Glee. No longer did the rain matter, or the cold wind bother us, we were both warm and full inside. I don’t know about you, but I would definitely consider that another perfect pair.